Home Forums KCW Current Projects PatK’s Class 5/1600

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  • AvatarJasonS
    Participant
    Post count: 193

    This is awesome to see coming together! What an awesome father son project! These time will never be forgotten, trust me. I cant imagine what you guys have planned for this.

    AvatarPat K
    Moderator
    Post count: 1876

    Riley started cutting junk out on the pass side rear quarter yesterday. 48CDD91E-CBBE-48F5-B1B2-5F4FF416A43097BE4BC5-AB88-4BC3-B70D-0031134F2BF1

    I fabed a Onesize-fitsall-patch and burned it in to cover the end of the drivers side heater channel.4A5A104E-EC0C-475E-A046-2D8A9591D07D

    We will build it if it comes.

    AvatarDave-co
    Participant
    Post count: 64

    I have raced 51600 since 1977, still have one and going to give you a tip. You need to remove all your trans mounts and start over on mounting the trans. You need to sink the trans into the horns, you are allowed to cup the horns and bring the cv cups to the seam allowing for far more wheel travel than you can get the way it is now. just trying to help you do it rite the first(second) time. All the winning 51600 cars are that way. you are leaving to much on the table the way you have it.  grind a vally in the top of the torsion adjuster and sit the nose cone right in it. Grind in the center all the way threw the square piece welded to the adjuster and fit the nose cone from there. shape it to fit. I have spent 46 years racing 51600 class 11 and 1-2 1600, the trans and engine then will sit at a angle which you want. After you have it in then take 1in 095 smash 1 end then fit it under the horn and bump it into your motormount. make it long enough to go from the front of the trans to the rear motormount. Weld it to the bottom of the horn then you have a place to mount your skid plate and re enforce the horns at the same time. Any questions just ask but unless your making a play car trust me this is the way to do it. I know its a pain and yes you will have to cut out and modify all your mounts but better to do it now rhan with the body on…Dave-co5

    tlamberttlambert
    Participant
    Post count: 398

    Mr. Conehead?

    Tim

    AvatarDave-co
    Participant
    Post count: 64

    its actually my son Jeremy

     

    AvatarFranz
    Moderator
    Post count: 4080

    Hey Dave, I’m curious about 5/1600 gear ratios. Trying to decide what to buy. Sound like I need Weddle everything. 5.37 r&p with 30” tires 5.47 with 33” tires? What do you like?

    AvatarRustabus
    Participant
    Post count: 2247

    its actually my son Jeremy

    Sorry Homie! Good thing is every ship can find a dock!!! Conehead Son will find a partner someday!!!!😂👍

    Many Thanks for helping /advising my Buddies on how to waste lots o time and $$$ having some FUN!!!👍👍👍👍

    John JonesJohn Jones
    Moderator
    Post count: 7594

    I have raced 51600 since 1977, still have one and going to give you a tip. You need to remove all your trans mounts and start over on mounting the trans. You need to sink the trans into the horns, you are allowed to cup the horns and bring the cv cups to the seam allowing for far more wheel travel than you can get the way it is now. just trying to help you do it rite the first(second) time. All the winning 51600 cars are that way. you are leaving to much on the table the way you have it. grind a vally in the top of the torsion adjuster and sit the nose cone right in it. Grind in the center all the way threw the square piece welded to the adjuster and fit the nose cone from there. shape it to fit. I have spent 46 years racing 51600 class 11 and 1-2 1600, the trans and engine then will sit at a angle which you want. After you have it in then take 1in 095 smash 1 end then fit it under the horn and bump it into your motormount. make it long enough to go from the front of the trans to the rear motormount. Weld it to the bottom of the horn then you have a place to mount your skid plate and re enforce the horns at the same time. Any questions just ask but unless your making a play car trust me this is the way to do it. I know its a pain and yes you will have to cut out and modify all your mounts but better to do it now rhan with the body on…Dave-co5

     

    fucking wealth of knowledge here!!!  Fuck… nothing like experience and age…. 😎  😎  😎

    AvatarPat K
    Moderator
    Post count: 1876

    I have raced 51600 since 1977, still have one and going to give you a tip. You need to remove all your trans mounts and start over on mounting the trans. You need to sink the trans into the horns, you are allowed to cup the horns and bring the cv cups to the seam allowing for far more wheel travel than you can get the way it is now. just trying to help you do it rite the first(second) time. All the winning 51600 cars are that way. you are leaving to much on the table the way you have it. grind a vally in the top of the torsion adjuster and sit the nose cone right in it. Grind in the center all the way threw the square piece welded to the adjuster and fit the nose cone from there. shape it to fit. I have spent 46 years racing 51600 class 11 and 1-2 1600, the trans and engine then will sit at a angle which you want. After you have it in then take 1in 095 smash 1 end then fit it under the horn and bump it into your motormount. make it long enough to go from the front of the trans to the rear motormount. Weld it to the bottom of the horn then you have a place to mount your skid plate and re enforce the horns at the same time. Any questions just ask but unless your making a play car trust me this is the way to do it. I know its a pain and yes you will have to cut out and modify all your mounts but better to do it now rhan with the body on…Dave-co5

    Thanks Dave!!

    since 1977” … excellent vintage.

    first(second)time”….learning curve days suck!

    First question…. rear trans mount location stays stock? Just tilt the front down following your previous insights.

     

    Second question…same as Franz…trans gearing, tire size, any trans mods?

    Hey Dave, I’m curious about 5/1600 gear ratios. Trying to decide what to buy. Sound like I need Weddle everything. 5.37 r&p with 30” tires 5.47 with 33” tires? What do you like?

    We will build it if it comes.

    AvatarDave-co
    Participant
    Post count: 64

    i am assuming you are going to race More or Snore, 457 R@p, 4th gear you want a 155 with a 33in Yokohama super diggger 3. 3rd gear I think you want a 180 or 178 3rd. My 51600 was first built in 1977, has gone threw every rule change they have had. My trans was first built in 1982 when they allowed bus trans in 51600. all my gears date to 1982 which is much different than today. Mine has a 542RP wich is very hard to find these days. I have to ask my trans builder about 1-2 main shaft. %1600 is not about overall speed, mine goes 69 mph with wind behind it. You may think that is slow, we raced battle at primm last year not the one they cancelled the one before. there were 35 51600 cars, my son qualified 1st and then won Saturday by 5 minutes which is way in front on a course like that. Also won 51600 the year before and beat class 9 both times by a lot. We drag the war wagon out when the entry is big and their is big money to be won. She may not be pretty but the win record is huge for that car. look on youtube fot the 1991 HDRA desert championships at willow springs, I also won in 90 with another car. You will enjoy the races.as far as trans mounting you need to really read what I said in the other post, I tried to be as detailed as I could. I know its a hassle and a pain but I would rather you follow what I said and build a competitive car than leave it and not be competitive at all

    AvatarDave-co
    Participant
    Post count: 64

    the rear mount you will have to modify forsure. sit the trans into the horns with the nose cone on the adjuster and the cv flanges sitting on the horn then you know where to cup the horns to get it lower .My car is in a container on some property so I cant go out and take pictures for you, its about 35-40 minutes from here

    John JonesJohn Jones
    Moderator
    Post count: 7594

    he’s listening… 😎  Thanks Dave..  OHHH..  Does “Dave “Co”” stand for Colorado?  Or Company??  You live in Cali right??  just curious.. we were talking about ya around here….  I’m stocked I got to put a face and hand shake with these words…  and I could see everyone out there knew “Dave co”.. 😎

    He’s got some ambitious metal work to kill this weekend.  Finally a weekend were there are no deadlines and shit that need done!!!  He can get an entire weekend focused on just his car… 😎  😎  😎

    DSCF9801

    RSP3RSP3
    Participant
    Post count: 217

    This is gonna be so cool!

    AvatarDave-co
    Participant
    Post count: 64

    do not cut the stock dash out, its got to be there

    AvatarPat K
    Moderator
    Post count: 1876

    ^^^Yes Sr!!…👍👍

    Riley finished fitting the pass side rocker section this evening, and started cutting and fitting some other patches

    I welded in the drivers side rocker repair, and cut some more junk out of the front fire wall area.

    Only pics from today…😎D9952958-22C4-4E4E-A01E-9B0DE2853D45CBBEA209-6966-4437-9D1E-54C54AAEA2CA

    We will build it if it comes.

    AvatarDave-co
    Participant
    Post count: 64

    saw a couple of bodies today on market place rust free, to bad your not closer

    AvatarPat K
    Moderator
    Post count: 1876

    JJ let me pick a car out of the stack, offered better ones. This one was just good enough to use and probably would have just ended up junked…..and the pan was in awesome shape it was sitting on.

    Yesterday I welded in the pass side rocker, all of the patch panels Riley fabed, and a couple more I made up. 8BC5BD89-E015-4EFA-80D5-2FDDBEE1F1B421799524-7D7A-43D4-8588-5AF76FDA297DEF0054D9-777C-459F-BF88-3F109632222E3895D280-8F09-4B2B-926D-982E57AB909E47A0BEDE-055D-4572-BD83-F2A0A57A94605FF64331-D16D-4BE6-B61A-07896BFF827F

    Also started on the front fire wall area. Aiming to have all the repairs welded in today.FDB8D34C-B614-4C96-AE4D-F071DBCB5EAF439A7278-7D2E-43C8-A19B-24F3CF9B2796E970B04E-4041-4055-811C-D8B7377F8505

    We will build it if it comes.

    Avataralykat
    Participant
    Post count: 602

    Moving along smartly !

     

    AvatarColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 2156

    Riley is kicking ass! Hell ya.

    AvatarPat K
    Moderator
    Post count: 1876

    Dave…..any advantage to gain in removing the rear fender wells ?  ….. rules  allow for 1/2” below mounting holes to be removed, package tray must stay stock size.

    I think it would gain up travel for the tire….Insights please Sr?69EC3217-60E9-4AEA-A7BA-BD418FF255D5919244E1-808A-4D05-B10F-24E4EE583F35

    Riley is taking care of all the grinding this morning. Tedious job that he digs into and stays head down till its done….I really appreciate all the help Bud THANKS!!!035CC5A2-CF40-4C1F-9904-66E96EB10C211E1B3248-598C-4925-91E3-1A0C5BD3A393

    Front outer fire wall area back together. Inner next. 4A4F757D-ECE5-47D1-AF88-3A86BBBBFB38EE3714EF-A319-400E-A3C9-96B9BF3F56D3A6AF8F77-7186-41FD-A9B7-A2F9BB82A567

    We will build it if it comes.

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 127 total)
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