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New project under way in the dirty shop. Not sure of the all the build details other then full resto.
I believe this was Dans first car?
Started by pulling everything apart, sorting and organizing.
We will build it if it comes.
What mods are needed to the chassis for a Tesla drive unit?
Here’s the functional schematic. The gray box is supposed to outline the motor that we used, so all of those parts plus the transmission were one piece. However, if you go with the industrial motor you will have to buy the motor, transmission adapter, and motor controller separately. There are obviously more parts then just this, but it gives you a better idea. It definitely isn’t cheap just yet, but hopefully once the market becomes saturated with EVs we will see this being a much more enticing option. If you want a further breakdown on the parts we used email me moss.glenn@gmail.com”
Metal work has begun. Started with the drivers side rear body mount. Drew up a pic for location reference.
Decided the body mount bracket was salvageable, dissected it, then cut out the junk.
Three different metal sections in this repair. Wheel well section was first.
Body mount reinforcement section after that.
Body mount went on last.
Pass side rear body mount is up next.
We will build it if it comes.
Started on pass side rear body mount repairs Friday night. Cut out the rusty junk and started shaping up a patch panel for the fender well section
After some cutting, shrinking, hammer work, and bending I had something that would work.
Fit and tacked in.
Finished welding and ground both sides.
Started with the body mount reinforcement section last night. Bit of template work.
Some more bending and shrinking and whatnot and it was ready to go in.
All cleaned up.
Body mount back home.
Moved onto the pass rear bumper mount/ fender well. Some hammer and dolly work will be needed along with removing the bumper mount to fix some rust underneath it.
Cut out the junk, smashed everything back into shape, cleaned off the surface rust and prepped the surface with rust converter.
We will build it if it comes.
Not sure about the Zelectric stuff…Looks like they want to do the whole car build.
EVwest out of California has tons of stuff available, and wanted to work with us a couple years ago.
I assume we want to get a motor with 150hp+ so that we’re not building a dorky slow electric car? They also have tons of battery options…..We need to figure out battery location and mounting before the body or pan gets painted in case we need to weld/build custom mounts and covers.
https://www.evwest.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=8&osCsid=pvck5i8hiru8h1cljom4vsfkd3
https://www.evwest.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=4&osCsid=pvck5i8hiru8h1cljom4vsfkd3
210hp !!!
AM Racing AMR 250-90 Single AC Motor – Liquid Cooled, Permanent Magnet – Remy Cartridge
[AMR 250-90]
Price: $9,288.00
This AM Racing motor is based on the very proven Remy 250-90 cartridge rotor using their HVH technology. (High Voltage Hairpin) This high efficiency permanent magnet motor is housed in a billet aluminum case with an integrated oil pump, and water/glycol heat exchanger. Mainly used in race applications, this motor is designed for long life use, and is perfectly suited for high output daily driving applications. Can be used in conjunction with the Rhinehart 100kW or 150kW motor controller/inverter.Motor Diameter: 10.5 Inches
Motor Case Length: 11.25 Inches
Motor Shaft Length End to End: 12.25 Inches
Motor Type: Brushless Permanent Magnet
Brushes: No
Weight: 150 lbs.
Max Voltage Input: 360 Volts
Integrated Sensors: Encoder, temperature
Peak Torque: 280 Lb Ft Peak (w/150kW controller)
Peak Power: 210 HP Peak (w/150kW controller)
Max RPM: 10,000
Drive End Shaft: 32 spline 35.5 mm
Thermal Cooling: Internal oil pump with water heat exchange
Warranty Period:1 Year
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