MikeKParticipantJanuary 6, 2020 at 8:28 amPost count: 136
Thanks all! Current plans are to get it back on the road with a few modifications to make it more of a practical driver. I have a nice motor that’s been on a stand too long and slated for cars I don’t even own anymore. I’m building an adjustable, ball-joint beam from a 68 and also plan on an IRS conversion from a similar year Bus. It’s going to be stock height or pretty close to it with some off-road tires.
So the theme is; fast, comfortable, handle well on and off road with a sunroof, comfy bed and a lot of windows.
While it’s running and I’m able to enjoy it, I plan on picking away at little parts to make it better and better. Eventually I’d like it very stock and maybe an Okrasa or early 356 motor, though that’s a long way off.MikeKParticipantJanuary 6, 2020 at 8:38 amPost count: 136
I initially wanted to try to save the paint that was underneath the re-spray, but after some stripping and scrubbing, I don’t see that in the cards. The Bus looks like it spent some time on it’s roof or side at one point and when it was repaired they took off quite a bit of paint during preparation. I dig those builds where they touch up around a stamp sized piece of OG paint but that’s not for me. I think you have to be British or German to be qualified for that type of build.
Here’s what I found under the re-spray:MikeKParticipantJanuary 6, 2020 at 8:41 amPost count: 136
If the whole Bus looked like this, I would leave it, but there are other sections that are just bare with red primer and there is virtually no Chestnut in the mix. I’ll just prime whatever I end up fixing.MikeKParticipantJanuary 6, 2020 at 8:46 amPost count: 136
The apron was chopped up like the rear bumper.MikeKParticipantJanuary 6, 2020 at 8:55 amPost count: 136
I still need to spitznagel a couple of dings that sit behind the apron, but the heavy lifting is done. I’m glad I was able to keep the spot weld marks below the crease and plan on leaving those when it’s painted. I don’t think that area is totally smooth on an original Bus.MikeKParticipantJanuary 7, 2020 at 10:09 amPost count: 136
I’m starting on my Bay beam for the Samba and have a question. What better place to ask a question about beams than KCW, right? I only plan on lowering it about a notch in order to get it near stock, split bus height. Apparently a Bay beam will make a split sit a little higher from what I’ve read.
Will I need to remove or relocate the bump stop arms from the ends of the beam if I go down just an inch? I chopped these off of the last couple of beams I installed adjusters in but they went lower and higher than I plan for this one. Thanks in advance for your expertise.John JonesKeymasterJanuary 7, 2020 at 1:03 pmPost count: 5878
I doubt they would be a problem.. but.. may not have enough down travel for a split???? What makes you want a BJ beam in a split bus?FranzKeymasterJanuary 8, 2020 at 8:11 amPost count: 2976
Nice work! How many hours did you spend on that bumper and apron?
Keep in mind that that lowered buses usually have smaller tires…meaning that the bump stop may leave an inch or two before the tire starts rubbing…..I’d cut down the rubber disc or leave it out.RustabusParticipantJanuary 8, 2020 at 8:24 amPost count: 1703
Lovin the attention to detail!!! I’m with John though, why are you puttin in late model suspension in a Split?MikeKParticipantJanuary 8, 2020 at 10:02 amPost count: 136
I have several reasons to install the later beam. First and foremost, I like how a near stock BJ beam rides. If I were going much higher or lower, I’d likely use a K+L beam as your limited in adjustment due to the nature of the ball-joints. Secondly, I already had the beam and most of the parts since this is the setup I was planning on using on another Split Bus I was building. Lastly, this will give me an opportunity to restore the OG drive-train while keeping the Bus on the road.
After looking at it a bit more yesterday, I came to the same conclusion as Franz, I think I can trim the lower snubbers and have it work as intended.
Regarding hours to straighten the bumpers, I have about 10 or so into the bumpers, minus disassembly and stripping and about 3 into the apron so far. Probably another hour to go after the remaining dings and dents.MikeKParticipantJanuary 8, 2020 at 10:05 amPost count: 136
While on the subject of beams, will I need to use a Split or a Bay drag link? I’m hoping Bay since I already have a fresh one in my stash.
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