Home Forums Bullshit My endless projects…

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  • MikeK
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    Post count: 230

    I still need to spitznagel a couple of dings that sit behind the apron, but the heavy lifting is done.  I’m glad I was able to keep the spot weld marks below the crease and plan on leaving those when it’s painted.  I don’t think that area is totally smooth on an original Bus.

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    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    I’m starting on my Bay beam for the Samba and have a question.  What better place to ask a question about beams than KCW, right?  I only plan on lowering it about a notch in order to get it near stock, split bus height.  Apparently a Bay beam will make a split sit a little higher from what I’ve read.

    Will I need to remove or relocate the bump stop arms from the ends of the beam if I go down just an inch?  I chopped these off of the last couple of beams I installed adjusters in but they went lower and higher than I plan for this one.  Thanks in advance for your expertise.

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    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6339

    I doubt they would be a problem.. but.. may not have enough down travel for a split????    What makes you want a BJ beam in a split bus?

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3372

    Nice work! How many hours did you spend on that bumper and apron?

    Keep in mind that that lowered buses usually have smaller tires…meaning that the bump stop may leave an inch or two before the tire starts rubbing…..I’d cut down the rubber disc or leave it out.

    Rustabus
    Participant
    Post count: 1845

    Lovin the attention to detail!!! I’m with John though, why are you puttin in late model suspension in a Split?

    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    I have several reasons to install the later beam.  First and foremost, I like how a near stock BJ beam rides.  If I  were going much higher or lower, I’d likely use a K+L beam as your limited in adjustment due to the nature of the ball-joints.  Secondly, I already had the beam and most of the parts since this is the setup I was planning on using on another Split Bus I was building.  Lastly, this will give me an opportunity to restore the OG drive-train while keeping the Bus on the road.

    After looking at it a bit more yesterday, I came to the same conclusion as Franz, I think I can trim the lower snubbers and have it work as intended.

    Regarding hours to straighten the bumpers, I have about 10 or so into the bumpers, minus disassembly and stripping and about 3 into the apron so far.  Probably another hour to go after the remaining dings and dents.

    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    While on the subject of beams, will I need to use a Split or a Bay drag link?  I’m hoping Bay since I already have a fresh one in my stash.

    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    I’ll answer my own question; split drag link.  The Bay unit is about 6″ too long and the fixed end which attaches to the pitman arm is installed 180 out from where it should be.

    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    In addition to the Bus stuff, I’m also into vintage motorscooters.  We have a really strong scene in CS meeting up once a week to have some beers and turn wrenches.  The local club, Peak SC will be hosting the Moving on Up rally for the 20th consecutive year this summer.  Camp out and city rally every other year.

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    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    Sometimes a few show:

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    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    Sometimes more than a few:

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    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    I still have my first scoot, the red Alstate Vespa in the picture above, but I’ve always wanted a Lambretta Jet 200.  I was able to trade a very cool, mid-century, George Hausermann designed chair and ottoman to my buddy Jarrod for a semi-complete Lambretta project.  We scrounged together some other parts from club members that were too worked for their bikes but perfect for my custom Lammy.

    Like many of my projects, I do a little bit as time and motivation allow.  I’ve been plucking away at the body for a year or two now, collected most of the engine parts and plan on having it rolling this summer.

    The side panels are off of a different bike and I had to shave the latches in the back as well as fix some cracks and dents.

    015

    MikeK
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    Post count: 230
    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230
    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230
    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230
    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    I really like working on these things.  The projects are far smaller and more manageable than a full blown car project and I like the challenge of metal finishing them.  Unlike most of my work, many of the scooter parts are visible from both sides.  Most metal projects, like the press bumpers shown earlier, have a finished and unfinished side.  You flip the bumpers over and you can see the welding and hammer marks.  Working on the scooters brings a different level of detail if done correctly.

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    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230
    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    I finished metalwork on most of the removeables and epoxy primed them last year.  Lambretta’s have a lot of parts.

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    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 230

    I want to build something a bit different than what I’ve seen while keeping the bike pretty sublime.  It’s going to have some old-school tuning done to the motor and I want the bike to have a 911R feel about it.  The 911R was a Porsche lightweight built in the late 60’s which set a bunch of records and spawned a lot of tribute cars.  It had drilled out or lightweight everything.  I’m going to try to keep this thing light and simple.

    A lot of tuners will ditch the stock fresh air box and install an air cleaner directly to the carb.  I wanted more of a factory look so I remove the restrictive air horn from inside the air box and modified it with a mesh covered intake.

     

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