MikeKParticipantJanuary 5, 2020 at 11:38 amPost count: 136
The front was a little more worked than the back, but not rusted.MikeKParticipantJanuary 5, 2020 at 11:45 amPost count: 136
The toughest part was that the bottom edge was rolled down making it so the blade wasn’t perpendicular to the Bus. With the bumper on a flat table, the lower lip was at least and 3/4″ in. I had to beat the hell out of it into a sandbag and reshape.
I thought it was interesting that it was drilled for Euro and American plates. The deck-lid is the same. I’m not sure if there was a dealer in Colorado in 1958. I imagine that it was a soldier who brought it back from Germany. Sanford told me that the original owner was a veterinarian who made house calls with the Bus.MikeKParticipantJanuary 5, 2020 at 11:47 amPost count: 136
I use Dykem as a guide coat when I planish and metal finish parts to improve visibility of the low spots.MikeKParticipantJanuary 5, 2020 at 11:51 amPost count: 136
It takes time, but eventually all the low spots get bumped up and planished flat. The file doesn’t lie.MikeKParticipantJanuary 5, 2020 at 11:53 amPost count: 136
A few scratches which should cover with a couple coats of epoxy, but these are pretty much ready for paint.MikeKParticipantJanuary 5, 2020 at 11:54 amPost count: 136
In addition to the planishing hammer and body file, here’s what I used.C.HamburgParticipantJanuary 5, 2020 at 7:24 pmPost count: 157
Awesome work on those bumpers.
My broke ass has fiberglass ones lol
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