[sled]

in reply to: JJ's projects #50010

just want to apologize John, for clogging up your thread!

maybe we’ll all meet some day and have a beer! (or a few) 😀 …until then ill see y’all on down the road.

[sled]

in reply to: JJ's projects #49979

John Jones wrote:

sled wrote:

whats the specs on the new engine?

I know I want the beast breathing heads I can get this time…8-) My kombi has stage two Steve Tim’s heads.. they are awesome. Painters mentioned panchito’s last time I talked to them… I’m guessing 2332, 110, 8.5, 1/2 exhaust all around, with empty heater boxes, and I’m gonna buy a Gas powered Webasto soon!!!! Maybe two!!!!! and Since I am gonna go a gas heater…. I will put a bay tank in my heavy bitch and make her heavier… and a gas heater…. more more more… woo hooo!!!!

panchitos are phenomenal heads, definitely go with those if Painters is willing to use them!!  an engine needs to breathe appropriately to make torque, choking the exhaust does not necessarily increase torque, but it will increase heat.  Almost any 2332 with 40×35.5 heads and dual carbs will benefit from 1-5/8″ primaries.  Is Painters familiar with other cam grinds than the old school 110? a Web 218 or even a Web 163 would be much better in a 2332 with panchitos than a 110 will be.  9.0:1

curious to see how this new one turns out!

I am really tempted by the inexpensive diesel heaters available now, I have a couple buddies who rave about them!

[sled]

in reply to: JJ's projects #49941

whats the specs on the new engine?

[sled]

in reply to: JJ's projects #49581

John Jones wrote:

I have some thoughts…. HEATERBOXES make heat… why mount the BEST heat generating source we have right UNDER our bigger HP heads???????? REDUC BOXES…. Cost Power.. Period. for many reasons… Does the stock fuel pump “pre-heat” my fuel????? I have boiled gas in my filter thats before the carbs before… Doesn’t an open header run cooler than a j tube through a heaterbox??? seems logically… AND, without a heaterbox and all clogged up with tin down there… I bet the heads instantly run cooler…. especially on the hwy!!! which is mostly what I have to travel on to get to the campouts!!!!!

I personally run electric fuel pumps on my own buses as well as customer buses

an open header (J tube) won’t necessarily run any cooler because it doesn’t have the cool forced air from the fan blowing over it all the time.  A regular “j tube” requires the turbulent air from under the bus to cool it, and if you’re not running “industrial” sled tins then the hot air from the heads is blowing right onto the J tube. Whats more critical is how the hot exhaust gases can leave the head and exhaust primaries.

the heater box serves as tin to deflect the hot head air rearwards.  When using plain J tubes it is definitely beneficial to run industrial tins.

head temp is based on a lot of things, but its not very much affected by a heater box versus a plain J tube.  Whats more important is for the head to be able to flow the hot exhaust gases out.  Stock heater boxes on a 2332 is a SURE way to have hot heads (and leave a lot of power on the table)

and yes, 1-3/8 J tubes can be ideal for smaller displacement engines.

a properly built 2332 in a bus should have at minimum 1-1/2″ exhaust primaries, but realistically should have 1-5/8.  1-3/8″ will not increase torque, only heat with that size engine.

heres something to ponder and maybe this is digging into it too much for you…but a 2332cc has to WORK less to maintain 65mph than an 1835cc.  all else equal the 1835 is working at a higher percentage of its capacity, requiring more throttle input.  More load = more heat.  So, if a 1835 with 9.0 compression can bomb down the road at 65mph all day long and run cool as a cucumber than a 2332 inherently will as well.  (I only use that example because one of my buses has a 1835 with 9.0:1 compression, .045 deck height and redux boxes with big 215/75r15 tires.)

we’re only trying to help, don’t take anything the wrong way 😀

oh and its not the reduction boxes fault

[sled]

in reply to: JJ's projects #49422

I was waiting till the 2007 got pulled out 😆

maybe now is the time to heed some of Brians advice? he knows what he’s doing and has been very generous with his knowledge.  I know its all a bit ‘new school’ for you guys, but times change and so does understanding of performance engine building.

also, the new 1-5/8″ heater boxes have aluminum fins cast inside them and will work great.  A properly built 2332 will need 1-5/8 exhaust anyway.

oh and as Cole mentioned, the transaxle gearing is very important, no reason to be running a 3.88 with an .82 fourth with such tall tires.

[sled]

in reply to: JJ's projects #45229

Scott Sain wrote:

Why wouldn’t you sand down the red inserts instead of the control arms? I thought that was the common practice.

adjustable reamer works great for this to creep up on the fit for each torsion arm!

[sled]

in reply to: Coles SWR DD Pamper #44834

ColeB wrote:

sled wrote:

looks like the forestland parking lot. Go try the Tea cup and Beautification! (that one is below the road on the river)

sled. How do you know about Leavenworth? You a boulderer? Both of those are amazing!

I have been climbing in Leavenworth for MANY years.  I’m mainly a sport climber but I ‘cut my teeth’ bouldering.  I live two hours north of Leavenworth in one of Washington’s secret climbing paradises.  higher quality bouldering than Leavenworth, but don’t expect to find a guidebook or many locals willing to share info 😀 My good buddy Dave put up both those boulders above, he now lives where I do and is continuing to put up world class double digit problems.   You follow me on IG by the way, I’m @sledvw

hows the Spokane area treating you?

[sled]

in reply to: Coles SWR DD Pamper #44816

looks like the forestland parking lot.  Go try the Tea cup and Beautification! (that one is below the road on the river)

[sled]

in reply to: Mary’s Yukon Yellow 55 vert #44796

Franz wrote:

Man, they barely look different. Deep 6″ will fit better anyways. Do you have some 7r?

I did, but sold them like an idiot.  Oh well thats being a responsible adult I guess 🙄

and yes 6’s will fit a LOT easier.  A 7R has the additional inch of width added to the inside of the wheel, so they require big spacers on a VW.

[sled]

in reply to: Mary’s Yukon Yellow 55 vert #44777

Lone Star wrote:

sled wrote:

the wheels in the photos above are regular “deep 6” wheels, not 7R’s. Like you say Franz, 7R’s are a very tight fit in an early beetle!

Thanks for the info. I measured 7 inches across, so I just thought they were the 7R wheels.

just for anyone else that is curious (and I know most of you know this), wheels are measured inside the lips, where the tire bead will seat.  You’re correct if you pull a tape across the outside these wheels will read 7″ but inside only 6″.

7R’s are very rare and can easily be distinguished by their unique barrel shape as seen here…

[sled]

in reply to: Mary’s Yukon Yellow 55 vert #44729

the wheels in the photos above are regular “deep 6” wheels, not 7R’s.  Like you say Franz, 7R’s are a very tight fit in an early beetle!

[sled]

in reply to: BARNDOORS #41352

The cool thing about that photo is the ‘uterus’ manifold on the engine meaning its a 54-early 55!  seems to be painted a semi-gloss black?  That manifold is the single most overlooked/rare detail on 54-early 55 beetles and buses.

[sled]

in reply to: 66 deluxe megahatch #33970

I need to cruise my dormobile down your way and check this thing out some day! rad build.

[sled]

in reply to: 66 deluxe megahatch #11624

Franz wrote:

Trying to fit in the early decklid club.

fuck I’d take the late model.  spend a few weeks on the road camping and its pretty apparent which is more fun!

really makes me want to get cracking on my 65 dormobile road warrior

[sled]

in reply to: Pauls 60 Single cab #8959

all yellow with black details FTW!

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