Forum Replies Created
- sidehillParticipantMay 7, 2019 at 9:44 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantMay 4, 2019 at 4:13 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantApril 30, 2019 at 7:23 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantApril 29, 2019 at 8:51 pmPost count: 34
Looking at the forums I see a lot of folks complaining that CVs labeled as Type 4 or 944 are actually Type 2, cause Type 4 or 944 are so hard to find. If they are type 2 and the type that are described as “off road prep”or “clearanced”, supposedly some are good 22 degrees, but if they are type 2 they are only 32mm wide. That may cause problems with spline length and bolt length. Just wanted to give you a heads up.sidehillParticipantApril 29, 2019 at 7:25 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantApril 29, 2019 at 1:24 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantApril 28, 2019 at 10:05 pmPost count: 34
I’ve done quite a bit of research on CVs and have also talked with the guy who built this car. He said he bought four 944 CVs but two wouldn’t work because of the bolt holes, so he had to buy two Type 4 CVs instead. Since I have read on the forums that 944s and Type 4 are the same part I wonder if he’s just forgotten what he installed. He said the had to go with the Type 4 because of some bolt size issues. He also says the car has Thing stub axles.
So I guess what I’d like you to do, after you adjust the valves, is pull both axles and check the width of the outer races to see if they are 32mm Type 2, or 34mm which should be 944 or Type 4 (Thing) CVs. Then check whether they are assembled correctly, with all the parts facing in the right direction, and also check if they are properly clocked and phased. When you have the axles out, and the metal boot housing tapped off, I’d like to come down and look at them.
If you google “dans performance youtube clocking” a 2 minute video explains phasing.
ThankssidehillParticipantApril 26, 2019 at 10:55 amPost count: 34sidehillParticipantApril 25, 2019 at 9:02 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantApril 25, 2019 at 8:58 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantApril 22, 2019 at 11:02 pmPost count: 34
I had time to do a little research this evening and see what you mean about the clearanced Type 2 for increased axle angle. And I see what you mean about not finding any Porsche 944 CVs advertised. I guess they are old-school and pretty rare now. I think the clearanced type 2 would work OK. Although the serial numbers on the CVs show it to be Type 2, I’d still like you to measure the width of the CV to be 100% sure that they’re Type 2 and not 944 (type 4). The Blindchickenracing CV101 page shows 944s to be 34.02mm wide and the Type 2 to be 32mm. While you have it off the flange can you also check the droop, and see if it’s properly clocked?
I still don’t understand why neither CV clicked until the other shop greased the CVs and replaced the boots.
I’m out of town until this weekend but will do some more research online and let you know how I want to proceed on the CVs.
SidehillsidehillParticipantApril 22, 2019 at 8:26 pmPost count: 34
Pat asked me to post my work requests in Parkway-Projects.
My Class 11 look-alike looked like this after the original builder was finished.
The next owner started to convert it into a true Class 11 racer, so it was lowered and other mods were made to make it qualify as Class 11, and it ended up looking like this. In this iteration the notched spring plates were removed and stock spring plates installed which rested on the stops. So it had no up travel and was harsh and breakable IMO.
I bought the car recently and plan to use it to run in the desert and on easy mountain jeep roads. I have lifted it back up to how it was with aftermarket spring-plates and front lift-spindles. It now looks like this. I still have the roof rack.
Pat is working on it, and the priority is to check that the valves are adjusted properly. I believe the push rods are aluminum but I’m not sure so that needs to be checked. If so I think the clearance should be 0.006, not loose-zero as for steel push rods. Secondly there is some electrical work needed; tail lights. Next it’ll need some CV work, but I’ll need to do some research on that first. When I bought it I thought it had 944 CV’s (aka Type 4) which are good up to a 22 degree axle angle. Pat says it now has Type 2 (bus) CV’s, only good to 17 degrees. Apparently the fellow who wanted it to be a legal Class 11 pulled the 944 CV’s and replace them with Bus CV’s because the 944’s are Porsche and only VW parts are Class 11 legal.
So Pat, since I need to do more research, please hold off on the CV’s and just adjust the valves properly, and fix the tail lights. We’ll also need to talk about installing turning brakes. I want these for traction, not for turning. I’ll also need advice on skid plates and might have you guys build or install them. Thanks for your help. I’ll pick it up after the valve and electrical work and have you do the CV’s later. Let me know when it’s ready. Thanks.sidehillParticipantApril 16, 2019 at 8:43 pmPost count: 34
I don’t seem to be able to past links when I reply. This is my third try this evening, so I’ll forgo the links.
If you google Blindchickenracing cv joints 101, the first link takes you to a page with the specs on the various CVs, showing 944s capable of 22 degrees.
If I truly have 944’s I don’t think my DS angle is too extreme.
I have also found a thread on the Samba showing how a CV can be installed backwards. Is this a possibility? I have copied it to a Word document but don’t know how I can get it too you. I’m out of town until the weekend.
Per Blind chicken racing.
Type 1 is 12 deg
Type 2 is 17
Type 4 is 22 (aka 944)
930 is 25sidehillParticipantApril 16, 2019 at 6:12 pmPost count: 34
Hope this isn’t a double post. I think it timed out when I tried to reply before.
Unless these guys are wrong, 944 aka type 4 axles are good to 22 degrees
Type 1 is 12 degrees
Type 2 is 17 degrees
Type 4 is 22 degrees
930 is 25 degreessidehillParticipantApril 16, 2019 at 6:01 pmPost count: 34
Type 4 is aka 944, 22 degrees per
Type 1 is 12 degrees
Type 2 is 17 degrees
Type 4 is 22 degrees
930 is 25 degreessidehillParticipantApril 15, 2019 at 8:10 pmPost count: 34
Thanks. I dropped the car at your shop today, along with a list of the specs on the car, as I understand them to be. The engine could have been changed from these specs, since it went through a couple of later owners. So it is possible that it has steel push rods instead of aluminum but I seriously doubt it.
The engine has been machined for hydraulic lifters, but after one collapsed the first owner put in solid. Not sure why. I’m still in contact with him and he thinks I should put in hydraulic again. What would be the cost for that? For now though just adjust the valves correctly.
As for the CV clicking I mentioned to Pat, I don’t think it could be the angle since these are 944 cvs, plus it didn’t click when I took it too this guy and didn’t bind this afternoon when I jacked it to full droop. First owner just mentioned clocking of the CV’s, something about the lobes on the races. If you search “Clocking” in the Samba HBB forum there is a thread about it.sidehillParticipantApril 14, 2019 at 8:37 pmPost count: 34
They were set at 0 with the engine cold. The mechanic that set them tried to tell me that they were steel push rods, but I know they are aluminum. Then he changed his story and said that 0 is OK with aluminum because of the type of rocker I have. I just feel like he didn’t want to admit his error.sidehillParticipantFebruary 15, 2019 at 9:50 pmPost count: 34
Here’s the bug. I bought it in December and have been working to get it back to the original Class 11 look-alike build which was messed up by the next owner. This first photo is the builder’s work; Sxuxrxf on Samba. Second photo is after the next owner messed it up. Third photo is recent after I lifted it back up. It has type 4 CVs so driveshaft angle is not an issue. I’ll get it to your shop eventually cause stuff needs done that’s over my head.sidehillParticipantFebruary 14, 2019 at 9:47 pmPost count: 34sidehillParticipantFebruary 14, 2019 at 10:05 amPost count: 34
OP here. I should have mentioned that my shock mounts are stock. Old shocks collapsed are 13″, but might need to collapse 1/2 ” more, extended 18.75.
The are an OK fit but need to be recharged and/or rebuilt (FOA’s), but they have no cushioning at top or bottom, more of a ball and socket type of solid mount.