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Joshua BParticipantMay 24, 2021 at 11:27 amPost count: 33Joshua BParticipantFebruary 12, 2021 at 10:54 amPost count: 33Joshua BParticipantNovember 13, 2018 at 6:31 pmPost count: 33
Fill us in on both, not to steal the thread though. What year scab and more pics. Is that a late pre a or a type 1 porsche? Looks like it may need a lot of front end work with the nose fenders and inner fenders sitting out there. Does that thing have flared fenders as well?Joshua BParticipantNovember 5, 2018 at 4:52 pmPost count: 33
Just reading over some of your thread. Your car and engine look great. As Franz said I ran into the same sort of problem. I messed with my car for weeks and weeks. I couldn’t get it sorted. It would lose fuel pressure under load. Especially climbing a hill and getting on it a little bit. I finally threw in the towel after trying everything I could think of and took it down to Franz. It was good. He helped sort the problems, like an arc in my fancy spark plug wires. He resurface my fuel pump valve and we took off a fuel filter as well. I thought we got it all sorted. I got it home, and went to take it on a long drive, when the weather was really hot. Sure enough I lost fuel pressure climbing a big hill. Took the exit fuel line off of the pump and could see there was fuel bubbling in there. Cooled the pump down a bit with a soaked rag and some quality me time, sitting on the side of the road looking like a dip shit wondering why I am in this hobby. I popped off the input side of the fuel line going to the pump and blew with a good breath. A big air bubble came out. Hooked it all back up, started it up and drove it home.
I would try checking the pan line as you said and put some air pressure to it at one end and blow it into a rag at the other. See what comes out. Then add some fuel, blow again and see what comes out again. If it cleans your line take it for a cruise. If it happens again, pull the outgoing line on the fuel pump, put down a rag and see what comes out. Then if that is good check the fuel line at the carb and see what comes out. If that is fine check your float bowl height.
Those fuel pumps are adjusted by gasket spacers, also check for the correct push rod for the pump you are using. Mine seemed to pump fine, but I feel the stroker engines with higher compression my run hot enough to get the fuel pump hot enough to boil the fuel, creating the bubble that won’t make it through the fuel pump valves. Or maybe at load it just can’t pump enough fuel to those bigger carbs. I don’t know.
So if the pump is not pumping due to a bubble maybe try what I did. I went on ebay, purchased a 6 volt electric fuel pump that pumps up to 2.5 PSI. Mounted it on a fuse under the tank. I Attached it to the toggle ignition lock on my steering column. Now I can run on just the mechanical or with the electric pushing the mechanical and it is out of site. I usually just turn it on at start up and turn it off when I shut down the engine. I tested the mechanical and could still notice it failing, so I would flip on the electric and it would push cool fuel through the pump and keep the fuel from bubbling. Works great. I just wish I would have set my car up for 12 volt now instead of 6. I sometimes have issues starting it after it is warmed up and has set. Maybe I have a bad battery or a draw at the starter or generator. Hope that helps.Joshua BParticipantOctober 14, 2018 at 1:59 pmPost count: 33Joshua BParticipantOctober 2, 2018 at 3:02 pmPost count: 33
That is what I was trying to figure out if I could do? Lots of things to check out first. If the case is good or needs or can be cut. How complete and functional the dry sump assembly is. If the case is just as deep as a 356 case. Which distributors could work. Will the crank accept a stock flywheel. Which tin and fuel pump can work. If a stock pulley can be mounted and a stock 90mm generator. I am missing the dual plug heads, maybe I can have some stock modified to fit?????? How much would that be$$$$$. It is an 82.5×74, it has all of the pistons, cylinders, crank, and rods. I just need to see if they are good enough to reuse. Need to find out what grind the cam is, and if the push rods are stock. Finally if it would be worth dumping $$$$s into it. 356 stuff is overly expensive, and I already have a few money pits.Joshua BParticipantOctober 2, 2018 at 1:46 pmPost count: 33
Yeah, I think someone replaced that head and carb as well. Sounds like it may have come with a 36NDIX and it a two plug head in that side and a 32NDIX card. I would also think the air cleaner would be like the completed one on the 356 registry and not the mesh type like the 356’s had.
Driving a rebuilt restored engine is one thing, but flying with one, I think I may pass. 🙂Joshua BParticipantOctober 2, 2018 at 11:59 amPost count: 33
Here is some info on the engines. I guess only about 100 of this variation were built I was told that this one belonged was either the original or the back up engine for a plane. I think he said the used the best parts for the engine in the plain. This was years ago, so I have no idea who owned the plane or which plane it was.Joshua BParticipantOctober 1, 2018 at 10:00 pmPost count: 33Joshua BParticipantOctober 1, 2018 at 11:02 amPost count: 33
Thanks John! You know how hard it is just to keep one. It’s a disease.
Check this one out Franz. Look at this Porsche aircraft engine I picked up this weekend. Unfortunately it is incomplete missing alot of the tin, a head manifold and carb. Originally they have 4 plug heads and I believe 36 Zenith NDIX carbs. Someone put a 356 head and 32 ndix carb on the one bank. It is set up for a dry sump and check out the lightened flywheel. Missing one of the original distributors as well. Look at the exhaust. This thing must have been loud. It is pretty cool and I am pretty stoked on getting itJoshua BParticipantAugust 28, 2018 at 10:55 amPost count: 33Joshua BParticipantAugust 27, 2018 at 8:53 pmPost count: 33
Think I am finally finished with building it. Now time for some driving. It is so much more quite with the interior in it. I also installed a 6 volt electric fuel pump under the tank. I have it wired to the ignition lock toggle so I can turn it on and off independently. It seems to work well. Turned it on and it fired right up after setting for 2 months.Joshua BParticipantAugust 27, 2018 at 8:50 pmPost count: 33Joshua BParticipantApril 11, 2018 at 9:55 pmPost count: 33