[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54098

1976 Baja 500, 85 class 11, dont know if I shared this or not to lazy to go back and look lol. My car is in the very back with the biggest lights on the roof right under the N under the bilstien banner

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54097

the floor just gets beat, 1/4 in front and back wrap up to the bumper up front. No need for entire car just turn your head when you see the floor bashed in lol. . You can do the same to the back of the car to, bring skid plate up to the bumper and be sure to secure the bumper well. My car on the right start line Parker 400 1977, my dad getting ready to get in me in the right seat. you can see the skid plates up to the bumpers, there are 71 class 11 cars  behind us in this picture this is when no tubing was allowed up to bumpers and no tubing to front ends basiclly 6 point cages and REAL STOCK

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54096

do not cut the stock dash out, its got to be there

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54045

1164 in that video is the car we won the Mint in, the one that got the hole shot. He would most likeley won but hurt his wifes back a lap or so in and had to slow down

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54044

I would keep the solex for now with a good aircleaner system, I know you put your heart into this race and I know you have learned a ton from it, I will help you any way I can, just ask, I have spent my life in class 11 51600 and 1600. I hold no info back, I want you to enjoy class 11 and you can.. certainly am not kicking you while down, I have won class 11 in Barstow on the roughest 65 mile course you could imagine, take all the rough and double the course averaged 36 MPH, my last drive in a 11 was the 2017 Mint 400 we won averaging 37 MPH. To some that may sound slow but let me tell you no Trophy truck on earth has ever come close to doubling my average speed, never. Glenn Helen in July 31st weekend expect a big entry and a very fun course. We will be there for that, JJ dont get down leave some of the bangs because they will come right back

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54042

the rear mount you will have to modify forsure. sit the trans into the horns with the nose cone on the adjuster and the cv flanges sitting on the horn then you know where to cup the horns to get it lower .My car is in a container on some property so I cant go out and take pictures for you, its about 35-40 minutes from here

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54041

i am assuming you are going to race More or Snore, 457 R@p, 4th gear you want a 155 with a 33in Yokohama super diggger 3. 3rd gear I think you want a 180 or 178 3rd. My 51600 was first built in 1977, has gone threw every rule change they have had. My trans was first built in 1982 when they allowed bus trans in 51600. all my gears date to 1982 which is much different than today. Mine has a 542RP wich is very hard to find these days. I have to ask my trans builder about 1-2 main shaft. %1600 is not about overall speed, mine goes 69 mph with wind behind it. You may think that is slow, we raced battle at primm last year not the one they cancelled the one before. there were 35 51600 cars, my son qualified 1st and then won Saturday by 5 minutes which is way in front on a course like that. Also won 51600 the year before and beat class 9 both times by a lot. We drag the war wagon out when the entry is big and their is big money to be won. She may not be pretty but the win record is huge for that car. look on youtube fot the 1991 HDRA desert championships at willow springs, I also won in 90 with another car. You will enjoy the races.as far as trans mounting you need to really read what I said in the other post, I tried to be as detailed as I could. I know its a hassle and a pain but I would rather you follow what I said and build a competitive car than leave it and not be competitive at all

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54001

its actually my son Jeremy

 

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #53990

I have raced 51600 since 1977, still have one and going to give you a tip. You need to remove all your trans mounts and start over on mounting the trans. You need to sink the trans into the horns, you are allowed to cup the horns and bring the cv cups to the seam allowing for far more wheel travel than you can get the way it is now. just trying to help you do it rite the first(second) time. All the winning 51600 cars are that way. you are leaving to much on the table the way you have it.  grind a vally in the top of the torsion adjuster and sit the nose cone right in it. Grind in the center all the way threw the square piece welded to the adjuster and fit the nose cone from there. shape it to fit. I have spent 46 years racing 51600 class 11 and 1-2 1600, the trans and engine then will sit at a angle which you want. After you have it in then take 1in 095 smash 1 end then fit it under the horn and bump it into your motormount. make it long enough to go from the front of the trans to the rear motormount. Weld it to the bottom of the horn then you have a place to mount your skid plate and re enforce the horns at the same time. Any questions just ask but unless your making a play car trust me this is the way to do it. I know its a pain and yes you will have to cut out and modify all your mounts but better to do it now rhan with the body on…Dave-co

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #53988

car looks almost like my 67 underneath with a couple thousand miles on it. I can give you the numbers you need for the shock valving and torsion bar sizes. The car that started next to you uses latest rage bars and spring plates and seam to do fine. Either way you need bigger bars thicker spring plates shocks of the size you want to use, also sway away 5 leef top and bottom leefs for the front. Ball joint you use stock leefs, link pin the stock leefs give up so sway away 5 leef packs up front. 1/4 in Aluminum skid plates under entire trans and engine is a must on a swing car like yours because with the best tuned swing car still sits low and will hit ground. line choice is big in class 11. UMP air cleaner 1000 percent.. Let me know

 

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #53947

If I had never raced class 11 before and watched this video no way would I ever build one. I think I said the F word a hundred times during the video, Good try guys WOW you did beat that shit up

 

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #53939

Another requirment on your car are the little tubes that go to the front bumper, would have prevented your bumper flopping over like that

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #53938

king shock will never work any better if the foxs are tuned right. I would never waste my money buying those unless your just into flash lol

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #53886

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #53882

it was a pleasure meeting you, you broke a shock quicker than I thought in the rear and the reason the front shock broke you need to put the stock snubber back on the front end. I will be happy to help you any way I can, NO one knows these cars like I do spending 46 years winning class 11. I forsure will help you with your shocks to help turn it into a great ride. Glad you got a skid plate on there. I stopped by your pit on the way out Saturday but no one was around. Air cleaner is huge, UMP all the way and you will need the angled solex to 3in that fits under deck lid. Like I said I didnt want to flood you with things you need to do but will give it to you straight what works what doesnt. Longer 12in fox shocks 12 in look in Race dezert.com for used ones you can buy new but I will help you set them up. We will be debuting our new 11 at Glenn Helen the 31st of July, hope you come to the 2nd race of the empi shoot out. Skid plate up front very important and Snubber essential especially when it calls it out in black and white in all the rules clearly. Keep your head up you will get there. not pretty but won 95 percent of the races it went to desert and short couse

 

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