[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #55613

We will be racing 1600 next weekend in Barstow. Get that 11 done JJ we will be debuting our new 11 at Glen Helen in Judy. You are welcome to pit with us if you like

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54554

Pat one thing tech will give you a problem with is the rear louvers missing, the entire inside and out side has to be there. Hate bringing more work on you but that will mater 100 percent

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54497

JJ are you staying with stock shock mounts in rear or are you going longer in back with side mount. I can help you and if you want to learn them to do on your own you can order the shims and oil seal kits threw my friend Dez and I can walk you threw it or you can send them to me and I will do them for you you order the things I tell you and I will pick the stuff up and I will rebuild and revalve them for you then send them back either way we can get you working a whole lot better in the rear

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54494

For several decades the frame head on your car now would have been a instant Dq as it was a very very large sticking part in the rules. My personal feeling its not the way it should be or be done for 51600 but in reality most wont give it a 2nd look these days. You will need to shorten the stock shift rod if that is what you are going to use Pat, I recomend a pro am shifter as they are very easy to adjust.

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54472

No on the hook stops pat, On mine I welded a 3/4 x 120  bar that the arm falls on the top stop is pretty involved and that I dont have a picture to show what I did but I tell ya it was SUPER controversial when I first did it and took nearly a year to finally get the ok because I had to take my car to Score at the time take the leefs out and cycle the suspension and they had to determine if it was hitting to much and it was the 1st time I took it there and got the ok the 2nd time we did the whole exercise again. Shock teck has come a long way since the mid 80s and bump is built into the shocks most use todat. Mine just has 2 inch shocks with Nissan Pathfinder bump stops. Trust me its a shit load of work to get it right

 

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54438

JJ 1/4 Aluminum under engine-trans 3/16 or 1/4 up front. Aluminum has been working on glass 11 nearing 5 decades. ot slides well over rocks and gives good protection. 1976 Mint 400

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54437

Well done Pat just what I described you did it well.. 23MM or 24 Sway away 300M long torsion bars 26 and what ever long get sway away 4130 spring plates for a swing axle to cut down. The IRS plates are a different size and do not come in 4130, they are about the size of the vw irs single plate just thicker.

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54381

get your pivots from Fodrill. any parts you may need call Dezz at Nexgen off road  at 951 365 1408 he will give a good deal and can get you most anything you need. I am a big supporter of his and he supports and sponsors my sons. and he ships world wide. Real good guy to deal with but being most aftermarket arms have different degree pivots from each other best get the pivots from where you got the rear arms from

 

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54364

Suspension stops you will cut right behind the bottom front hole leaving it there eliminating the bottom back hole all the way back then when you kinda figure where or I should say hoe far down your spring plat drops will give you a idea what kind of tear drop plate to weld on there and when you have the travel figured out buy solid square stock that you can weld on for your stop then you will gusset the plat with 1in to the torsion housing if you understand what I mean. You are doing great Pat

 

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54363

you are doing well. where you bought your arms ask for the pivots that go to it. you will want your cv joints 19 1/4 axles and 930 4130 boot flanges you will need the spring plates use 4130 sway away swing axle plates that you cut down to fit, 27 degrees on the axle angle and i put mine at 90 degrees at the very bottom so at ride hight you will have negative camber. you will weld the pivot nut the the pivot and rotating up ot down you will see the wheel camber and negative camber. The entire rear must be together to do it right. Dont just stick the pivots in their, you will trim the old one out. Its work but the way to do it. Trim the front mount to fit with the 1 inch tubes I mentioned before. Looks like you have spent some good money, Glad I could change your course before you went to far. 951 696 0219 is my number if you have questions while working on it but its looking 10,000 percent better now that you have done it correctly for 51600

 

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54355

Some one put your link on class 11 junkies on face book is how I found you guys about building the ovel window, I try to help as much as I can so people build right the first time. I have bled 46 years of racing these cars so they hopefully build a decent car so they dont get discouraged kinda like JJ  but now both can make decent changes to be competitive and have a great time doing this. I hate seeing guys put their hart into a car show up and its  not even close to what they should be. Good luck

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54354

yes, you will need to figure what arms and pivots to install. I recomend Lothringer arms and his pivots, micro stub arms. I run them on all my cars with no issues. Dont cut the pivots out till you decide what arms you will use, let me know when you decide but you can do ther things like body cage etc before you do the rear

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54318

You will meet them if you come to glenn helen forsure we are bringing the new 11 to that one. JJ I bought a new carson 6 and a half by 14ft single axle trailer out the door new for 1600 bucks to haul my rzr on day trips but it works great for Vws 1600 cars your bus would have no problem towing something like it. Has wood floor loading ramp you cant go wrong. Check it out if it might fit your budget. My pleasure helping you, hope I am not annoying you with all the pictures. Pat is doing great on the trans redo, any questions just ask. On the way to victory 1984 Baja 1000 porsche yellow suit on the captain

[Dave-co]

in reply to: PatK’s Class 5/1600 #54317

Now your cooking with oil, good job, when you make the fropnt mount raise the nose cone just off the adjuster maybe 1/16 or what you can but looks to me you are following what I said.  Keep it up, Won the overall and 1600 championship with this car  a couple of years ago and 15000 dollars now its one of our pre run play cars

[Dave-co]

in reply to: JJ’s Class 11 Oval #54294

Have won 9 Baja 1000s over the years in 11 1600 and 51600, this is my last attempt in class 11 in 06, co drivers were my biggest downfall after leading all day and night about mile 850 he went off the road got all excited blew reverce then blew 1st gear putting a end to a race we could only lose and he did that in spades. Car was perfect when I got out at mile 810. 07 were back winning it in 07 in 1600 was my final Baja 1000 try, could not get my 10th as I qioy going to mexico after a rouge cop put a gun in my teen age sons face demanding moneymaybe if I kept trying maybe but a rouge cop is all it took to never go back. turnedme off to mexico forever in 07

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