Home Forums Technical Questions Sidehill’s bug suspension

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  • sidehill
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    Post count: 49

    Franz

    When you were working on my front suspension you probably noticed that there was a hook and rod limiter of up travel..  I  had it on an easy rocky trail and whenever I would bump up a little rock I’d get a whacking noise and jarring bump.  I got the same thing on a speed bump that I intentionally Hook and rod on Sidehills bug

    hit a little hard.

    Jumping on the front bumper I can almost get the hook to limit on the rod.  Since the shock you put on has the rubber compression limiter I’m thinking about cutting off the hook because it seems like it is limiting too soon.  It seems like the rubber limiter on the shock would be sufficient.

    What do you think?

    Sidehill

     

    Franz
    Moderator
    Post count: 4191

    I think you need to turn the adjusters up on the front torsion bars to get the arm angle more positive.

    Some nice fox or king class 11 shocks would do wonders too.

    And maybe some long travel balljoints.

    sidehill
    Participant
    Post count: 49

    I like the idea of the long travel ball joints.  When I jacked up on the beam near the wheel, the ball joint looked maxed.

    The problem with turning up the adjusters is that then I have to lift the rear more, which is OK if the CVs will take it.

    What do the Fox or King class 11 shocks cost, and what do the long travel BJs cost?

    By the way, the FOA shocks on the rear seem fine on a rocky trail, it’s just the whacking in the front which I think is the hook and rod limiter.

    So do you think I should cut off the hook on the suspension limiter and rely on the rubber shock limiter?

    So far the 40s seem better than the 44s.

    John Jones
    Moderator
    Post count: 7863

    Cut the hook off….  you’ll probably end up with more up travel..  or crank up the front and look all pre runner stlyle..

    Pat K
    Moderator
    Post count: 2000

    I like the idea of the long travel ball joints. When I jacked up on the beam near the wheel, the ball joint looked maxed. The problem with turning up the adjusters is that then I have to lift the rear more, which is OK if the CVs will take it. What do the Fox or King class 11 shocks cost, and what do the long travel BJs cost? By the way, the FOA shocks on the rear seem fine on a rocky trail, it’s just the whacking in the front which I think is the hook and rod limiter. So do you think I should cut off the hook on the suspension limiter and rely on the rubber shock limiter? So far the 40s seem better than the 44s.

    Your CVs are maxed out currently, a set of 930s will solve that no problem.

    If you cut the hooks off it may allow the BJ to travel to far causing them to pop out or break.  Long travel BJs would help but the stop would probably need to be relocated.

    Shock cost? How much do you want to spend?

    https://www.kartek.com/parts-categories/class-9-and-11-shocks.html

     

     

     

     

     

    We will build it if it comes.

    Franz
    Moderator
    Post count: 4191

    I think the hook is in the right place. But your suspension turned down so that its not nose-high with the lifted spindles.

    Stock spindles would be better. I already told you this. I can’t help a guy who won’t listen to me!

    You could take the small spacer/nut out from the upper the shock mounting  to see if it’s the shock bottoming out….But I doubt that is the issue.

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