Home Forums KCW Completed Projects Pete's 58 Lowlight Karmann Ghia

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  • Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    I’m going to try the 122’s again.  I cleaned out some “debris” from them so I should have reinstalled after clearing that out rather than jumping to the 128’s.  Live and learn.

    JWDII
    Participant
    Post count: 402

    Glad to here you are getting it sorted out Pete! I met Eric with the outlaw 58 this weekend at the farm. He is a nice guy with a beautiful car. My wife said it was her favorite car at the show. We talked some about your motor and how we both would like to some day see your ghia in person. I also seen Mr. Sain and spoke shortly on my way out with a Migraine. Good show and another great weekend at the farm.

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    Erik was a HUGE help during my engine build.  Same for Scott…it’s nice to have experienced VW people around to bounce ideas and questions off of, and lend a hand when needed.

    I’d like to see Erik’s ’58 in person as well, and get my car to something outside of Charleston in the process.  Hoping I can have it dialed and tested to be confident to make the 2 hour drive to Orangeburg for Germanaire in November.

     

     

     

    dirtylawnchair
    Participant
    Post count: 62

    Hoping I can have it dialed and tested to be confident

     

    Dont guess.  This motor is too bad ass for guess work.  Tune it with a wideband to get the jetting as close to perfect as you can.

    https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1540394774&sr=8-3&keywords=wideband&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011wideband

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    ^Thanks for posting that!  Timely too…..I literally just fired off a message to JB discussing this.

    Scott Sain
    Participant
    Post count: 287

    Hoping I can have it dialed and tested to be confident to make the 2 hour drive to Orangeburg for Germanaire in November.

    2 hours with your old engine. 75 minutes with the new one.

    Andym
    Participant
    Post count: 944

    I ran a wideband on my air cooled.  it still wanted more fuel. And you can adjust one air/fuel screw and change it all..so your gonna be splitting hairs on counting your air/fuel screw adjustments.

    My Subaru swaps I don’t run them anymore. Just give it the fuel it wants and they run great.

    Do something

    Scott Sain
    Participant
    Post count: 287

    I ran a wideband on my air cooled. it still wanted more fuel. And you can adjust one air/fuel screw and change it all..so your gonna be splitting hairs on counting your air/fuel screw adjustments. My Subaru swaps I don’t run them anymore. Just give it the fuel it wants and they run great.

    I don’t run one on my orange car. I probably should though!

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3786

    Don’t be trying to lean your aircooled engine out to 14.7 : 1

    They need more fuel to stay cool. Something like 13.5 : 1

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    I won’t.  I’ll gladly sacrifice a little power/mpg’s to run on the richer side.  As I understand the goal for ACVW’s should be 12.5-13 wide open throttle, and 14 (or less) at idle.  Please correct me if I’m wrong.

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    Well, it’s still stumbling.  New plugs, wires, different coil, voltage regulator, new points, new condenser.  Moved fuel lines up from between manifold/shroud in case its vapor lock (it’s not).

    Going to pull the 019 and try an 009, but before I do that I’m going to try different idles/mains/air correction jets.  60 idle 122 mains seem big for a 1400cc with 26 vents.  Last plugs pulled were on the foul side.   Wideband came on Saturday so that should help once I figure it out.

    It’ll get there.

    Jb
    Participant
    Post count: 639

    I run 60’s in my 230hp 2332 🤔 seem pretty massive for a spiced up 36er. Before you mess with it more read that thread I told u about again and again until it makes sense. You will learn a lot by following John Connolly’s method of running around with main stacks removed completely to dial the idle circuit and then find your “tip in” point or transition to mains. You will probably have to change timing in conjunction. This shit can and will get you all stressed out but once it starts making sense it’s very gratifying. You got this pete💪

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    Thanks man.  It’s a bit frustrating…want to drive it!  Got a bunch of jets/tubes on order from CB…should be here early this week.

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 7076

    have you tried some extra timing?  seems I ran mine pretty hot……

    JWDII
    Participant
    Post count: 402

    You will get it Pete. It is a learning curve for sure! It can be real frustrating. My car would run great and I would be smiling thinking I finally got it right. Then on the way home it would start cutting out and acting a fool, Piss me off real quick. I finally pulled my carbs apart and found I had a float deteriorating from age I guess. It was flaking apart and clogging up stuff. It would float around in the bowl until it got sucked in some where and cause me a headache. I cleaned them real good and installed new floats. It has been running good since! You will figure it out. Just try to change one thing at a time, so you can pinpoint what is making a difference.

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3786

    Dang Pete. Sorry to hear. I wish I was closer so that I could help.

    Can you get it to run decent sitting in the drive way?

    I remember you saying it was hard to get the fuel pump to prime. I’ve had problems with the old style pumps more than once. The valves don’t always seal perfectly. Josh Bailey had this issue earlier this summer on his Okrasa, I was able to fix the valves, but it was short lived. Would run great for a few minutes, then then fall on its face. He installed a 6v electric pump under the tank to push through the stock pump.

    I don’t think the jets are the issue. You’re going to make yourself crazy tuning with that o2 sensor. Be careful not to read the accelerator pump fuel when judging a/f ratio.

    Smaller engine have less vacuum to pull fuel through the jets. Its common to see big jets on big carb /small displacement engine.

    JWDII
    Participant
    Post count: 402

    I struggled with fuel pressure with mine for a while also. I run an electric pump but found that the line from the tank to my pump was looping around , going up hill before it entered the pump. It was creating an air bubble in the line there and causing fuel pressure to fluctuate . My Webers are REAL picky about fuel pressure.

    I still have that fuel pump Pete.

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    It will run decent, all day, sitting in the driveway.  Idles beautifully, real snappy and responsive on quick revs, and holds high RPM’s no problem.  Not a pop or anything.  If it were a fuel pump issue could I expect problems in the driveway?  I see the 6v pump on Summit for $38…not opposed to trying that.  My initial priming problems was air lock in the line from the tank.  One squeeze of a vacuum brake bleeder and fuel was flowing.

    Problems emerge when under load, between 2500 and 3000 RPM’s and higher after 5 minutes of driving.  Starts bogging and losing power.

    Maybe I’m over thinking it but I thought idle jets run from idle to about 2500-3000, mains from about 2500 to 4500, and airs 4500+.  With 60 idles and 122 mains, and only a 26mm vent I can’t help but wonder if it’s just getting flooded with fuel in that 2500-3000 range.  If using the “baseline” jetting of 1.25x the carb body for the idle jet and 4.1-4.3X the vent for the mains then in theory I should be at a 45 idle (36 x 1.25) and 1.10 main (26 x 4.2).  I hear ya’ on the small engine/less vacuum, so I’m wondering if 50/55 idle and 115/120 main might get there?

    Here’s the setting’s on Shin’s Weber 40 IDF’s on his 1397 FWIW:
    Jetting

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3786

    Yep, you are over thinking it. If it were a jet issue it would have the problem right away as you pulled out of the drive way. It would seem like it was chugging or not responsive if it were super rich. I would have noticed that on the run stand too.

    This is exactly what Josh’s was doing. It would run great sitting, Out on the road after about 5 minutes it would loose fuel pressure and fall on its face. Almost seemed like vapor lock…but it was the fuel pump. Your porsche pump has an extra outlet that you could test pressure on.

    Almost certain you have a fuel delivery issue. Get yourself a 6 volt electric pump. You can leave all the plumbing and pump just like it is. The electric pump will push through the stock pump without any issues.

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 916

    Sh*t….that would be music to my ears if that’s the fix.  I’ll order that now….thanks!

    Before I go nuts installing this I’ll check the pressure of the current pump, and if it’s not right I might try the pump from the old 36.

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