WaynerParticipantJanuary 31, 2019 at 1:53 pmPost count: 33
I’d like to lift my bus 1.5-2” before this the Moab trip this spring and playing out my options, wondering about the cut and turn beam if that’s a good or bad idea. Seems like when I talked to jj about the bboe, he said something about turning just one of the torsions to where the shock drooped to.
My other option is a early bay beam as I hear they lift appx 1.5” and use the same torsion bars so “should” ride the same…..or having dubfab taking my set of Kp spindles and welding into lift spindles.FranzKeymasterJanuary 31, 2019 at 2:32 pmPost count: 2186
JJ was just cutting/turning the top tube because its the easiest to get at. The lower tube requires removal of the pivot pin housing.
The best thing would be to install adjusters.
Lifted spindles don’t tuck into/above the jack point the right way, they have rubbing issues. The arc of the suspension movement and spindle center point is better with stock spindles.
Not a fan of a ball joint beam in a split. Yes they raise slightly, But its because the beam is taller(the bottom beam tube is lower).Pat KKeymasterJanuary 31, 2019 at 2:42 pmPost count: 753
Does the bay beam cause the same effect at the spindle center/arc causing rubbing also?
We will build it if it comes.WaynerParticipantJanuary 31, 2019 at 3:07 pmPost count: 33
Hmmm. Adjusters, that’s something to consider.WaynerParticipantJanuary 31, 2019 at 3:14 pmPost count: 33
Franz, what did you do on your recent bus build?FranzKeymasterJanuary 31, 2019 at 4:04 pmPost count: 2186
Adjusters. I had an old school bus boys beam.FranzKeymasterFebruary 1, 2019 at 8:35 amPost count: 2186
Yeah, that should work nicely.
The upper adjuster does get close to the shift rod when its cranked for lift. I usually cut the head off of the grub screw for clearance.
Wagens West flips the upper adjuster 180 to help with this, but its hard to access for adjustment between all the cable tubes and pointed at the floor.WaynerParticipantFebruary 1, 2019 at 12:29 pmPost count: 33
Yeah, that should work nicely. The upper adjuster does get close to the shift rod when its cranked for lift. I usually cut the head off of the grub screw for clearance. Wagens West flips the upper adjuster 180 to help with this, but its hard to access for adjustment between all the cable tubes and pointed at the floor.
yea, when I talked to Nate yesterday and he said I could rotate the adjuster 180 and redimple the torsions. I’m gonna look into that once I get it up in the air. Gotta say, turning the upper beam does sound a lot easier. I can see why that option is used.WaynerParticipantFebruary 21, 2019 at 12:21 pmPost count: 33
Any idea on how much JJ turned the upper beam on the BBOE?FranzKeymasterFebruary 21, 2019 at 12:30 pmPost count: 2186
Almost strait down. I’ll get a picture later.
I think JJ may have broke some springs as its sitting at stock height now. Maybe because they were turned?FranzKeymasterFebruary 21, 2019 at 12:31 pmPost count: 2186
Also, I forgot to mention that you’ll want to cut the bump stops off of the beam.
…and get barndoor/64 beetle brake hoses.
..and take the sway bar off, if you have one.John JonesKeymasterFebruary 21, 2019 at 12:37 pmPost count: 4374WaynerParticipantFebruary 21, 2019 at 12:44 pmPost count: 33
Thanks for the info, I know a little bit turn goes a long ways. I also was wondering about the effects of preloading one leaf pack and the extra stress on it.John JonesKeymasterFebruary 21, 2019 at 12:49 pmPost count: 4374
the bboe I broke both center blocks free, in the bus… cut off the bump stops, removed the lower shock mounting… and then pushed the arms down till they would rest center block and all right where the lower shock mount lines back up with the undone and extended shock…
yes… I am questioning my 55 beam now…. 😎 which is why I want to build a new one with fresh torsions…. 😎
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