Home Forums Technical Questions Lifting a splitty bus

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  • Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    I’d like to lift my bus 1.5-2”  before this the Moab trip this spring and playing out my options, wondering about the cut and turn beam if that’s a good or bad idea. Seems like when I talked to jj about the bboe, he said something about turning just one of the torsions to where the shock drooped to.
    My other option is a early bay beam as I hear they lift appx 1.5” and use the same torsion bars so “should” ride the same…..or having dubfab taking my set of Kp spindles and welding into lift spindles.

     

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3649

    JJ was just cutting/turning the top tube because its the easiest to get at. The lower tube requires removal of the pivot pin housing.

    The best thing would be to install adjusters.

    Lifted spindles don’t tuck into/above the jack point the right way, they have rubbing issues. The arc of the suspension movement and spindle center point is better with stock spindles.

    Not a fan of a ball joint beam in a split. Yes they raise slightly, But its because the beam is taller(the bottom beam tube is lower).

    Pat K
    Keymaster
    Post count: 1428

    Does the bay beam cause the same effect at the spindle center/arc causing rubbing also?

    We will build it if it comes.

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    Hmmm. Adjusters, that’s something to consider.

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    Franz, what did you do on your recent bus build?

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3649

    Adjusters. I had an old school bus boys beam.

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    Cool. Adjusters ordered!

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3649

    Yeah, that should work nicely.

    The upper adjuster does get close to the shift rod when its cranked for lift. I usually cut the head off of the grub screw for clearance.

    Wagens West flips the upper adjuster 180 to help with this, but its hard to access for adjustment between all the cable tubes and pointed at the floor.

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    Yeah, that should work nicely. The upper adjuster does get close to the shift rod when its cranked for lift. I usually cut the head off of the grub screw for clearance. Wagens West flips the upper adjuster 180 to help with this, but its hard to access for adjustment between all the cable tubes and pointed at the floor.

    yea, when I talked to Nate yesterday and  he said I could rotate the adjuster 180 and redimple the torsions. I’m gonna look into that once I get it up in the air. Gotta say, turning the upper beam does sound a lot easier. I can see why that option is used.

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    Any idea on how much JJ turned the upper beam on the BBOE?

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3649

    Almost strait down. I’ll get a picture later.

    I think JJ may have broke some springs as its sitting at stock height now. Maybe because they were turned?

     

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3649

    Also, I forgot to mention that you’ll want to cut the bump stops off of the beam.

    …and get barndoor/64 beetle brake hoses.

    ..and take the sway bar off, if you have one.

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6731

    Any idea on how much JJ turned the upper beam on the BBOE?

     

    did them the same on that bus… about 1/2 or so…

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    Thanks for the info,  I know a little bit turn goes a long ways. I also was wondering about the effects of preloading one leaf pack and the extra stress on it.

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6731

    the bboe I broke both center blocks free, in the bus… cut off the bump stops, removed the lower shock mounting… and then pushed the arms down till they would rest center block and all right where the lower shock mount lines back up with the undone and extended shock…

    yes… I am questioning my 55 beam now…. 😎  which is why I want to build a new one with fresh torsions…. 😎

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    Aah. So, you broke free both center blocks and only turned the upper torsion housing and then bolted the lower block back in the stock location?

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6731

    BBOE, BOTH blocks turned same amount..

    my current pamper, I was lazy and only broke the lower tube free… turned it and welded it.

    Short answer…. I think the front of a bus is too heavy to be turning one set of torsions, you need to turn both sets the same amount so the spring pressure is the same on the upper and lower arms……

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 140

    My update ….dropped the rear cradle, built a new nose cone mount, installed adjusters in front beam, installed a new WW bay tank with reserve assembly, adding a berg mid mount as soon as they send right frame mounts, still waiting on Nate for his “really good disc brakes”, hope to have it driving again soon if parts situation cooperates. Will Prob be on drums for the initial run  DD3D5300-E76B-4955-85B7-BE4E97DC9AB2923FF65F-75D0-4CA3-9923-2DDD490C67B01B8EA5BF-2CD3-492F-8D0E-995165DCE6DE8A576A98-A468-4F28-8FBB-66661347DFD4

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1668

    Looking good Wayne!

    Rustabus
    Participant
    Post count: 1969

    Drum brakes are awesome!!!! Love that this isn’t a “I’m thinking about” thread!!!!  It’s a “I’m doing it”  thread!!!!!!!! YEAH!!!!! 🙂 🙂 🙂

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