PeteParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 7:18 amPost count: 982
This stuff is interesting to me. With a larger oil pump to keep the pressure up it’s hard to see how these mods can’t help, especially on these big bore stroker engines. Next Triple J’s project….Bob Hoover oiling mods on JB’s next case for his oval?
The vacuum advance may not be necessary, but the part about running 10-15 degrees retarded w/ a centrifugal-only advance dizzy at 1/3-1/2 throttle caught my attention. But maybe you’re at the rpm’s where it’s at max advance anyway? I don’t know….. but I imagine you long road trippers spend lots of time in that 1/3-1/2 throttle range. If nothing else if I were you JJ I’d definitely put a wideband on it to make sure your engine is staying out of that 14-15 AFR range at cruising speed.JbParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 9:10 amPost count: 651
Ya I’m game, been a while since I read any of that shit….maybe I’ll have to revisit, love learning.
I’d really like to get into a distributor that has some tunability….for the kombi and oval! the reliability of a cast mech dizzy is hard to beat but if carried a timed spare in the hazet 🤔 only problem is throw that in on side of road and carb jetting is out now
Pete these big motors are on idle jet on the highway. I put some miles on the kombi this weekend and was pointing out (to my hot ass fuckin date in pass seat🤤) how little throttle I was using at 130km…..probably 1/8” hahaWaynerParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 9:11 amPost count: 177PeteParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 9:34 amPost count: 982
these big motors are on idle jet on the highway. I put some miles on the kombi this weekend and was pointing out (to my hot ass fuckin date in pass seat) how little throttle I was using at 130km…..probably 1/8” haha
You think so? I’m still trying to learn this stuff. I thought that larger displacement engines create more vacuum, which bring in the main jets much sooner than smaller engines, so big engines are off the idle at very low load/rpm. Is that not accurate?WaynerParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 9:42 amPost count: 177
Also if you do go the vacuum advance route this valve helps make a stronger signal for dual carbs. And you want ported vacuum (above throttle plate) not manifold vacuum to work correct.John JonesModeratorAugust 27, 2019 at 2:08 pmPost count: 7744
well hell…. I will order one of those also… I ordered a distributor about an hour ago… 😎 air cooled.net too… 😎John JonesModeratorAugust 27, 2019 at 2:14 pmPost count: 7744
I have been running my timing more like stock for a long while now.. thinking less advance is cooler running.. but… I bet I was doing the opposite to mine by running it lower than 30 max or 10 idle…. woopsy.. 😎 😎JbParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 2:39 pmPost count: 651
Absolutely! I’ve driven my 55 around with no main stacks in it just idles for tuning and find the transmission. It lets you know when tipping into the mains real quick but can get into 4th gear if granny it. Is The beauty of IDAs is can tune the idle jet “holder” it’s like air corrector of the idle circ. I still have to tune the kombi more….there’s more in it, not that it needs to be faster🤐JbParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 2:41 pmPost count: 651
Having a lazy advance down low makes you throw fuel at it with a fat jet to cover up the lean condition caused by ignition. It’s a snowball. My bus has too big an idle in it right now…I’ve just been too busy to tune.WaynerParticipantAugust 27, 2019 at 3:56 pmPost count: 177
Driving with main stack removed on DRLA’s is also how you can isolate the idle circuit from main. Lean it out until it won’t run then back up a step. Then you can tune your main circuit with wideband for WOT. Smooth transition between the circuits. Main air correctors are the fun ones to tune….wind it out 😎
On the ignition side, it’s similar to the 009, you set your total timing (but vacuum unhooked and plugged) to what you want ie 30 BTDC. Then with the vacuum hooked back up, at part throttle you will prob see 45+ degrees total advance, but full throttle/under load only up to your 30 degree setting.
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