- WaynerParticipantSeptember 30, 2020 at 2:07 pmPost count: 157
He’s referring to the typo in the article. Is says 1/38 for exhaust tube size instead of 1-3/8
John JonesKeymasterSeptember 30, 2020 at 5:13 pmPost count: 7082
Scotts a english major or something like that… 😎 picky bald rocker… 😎 😎Scott SainParticipantOctober 1, 2020 at 5:30 amPost count: 287John JonesKeymasterOctober 6, 2020 at 4:31 pmPost count: 7082
Well….. I have this awesome oppurtunity to drive a bus to Mexico again.. this time waaaaaay down the baja peninsula.. With a good friend of all of ours…. 😎 He’s been there many times… which means, we will have the best tour guide ever…. 😎 But.. I really want to take my Pamper… and it’s down… Talked to Painters today, they said next week was out of the question… so… Looks like I am going to have to steal the Kombi motor and put it in the Pamper.. which will really be a great test in the name of science….8-) 😎 😎 and tests… 😎 😎 😎
I think I have two items I should hopefully be able to confirm or deny…
1) I want to see if I can tell the difference in my kombi and my pamper running the exact same motor,and exact same Right Foot..
2) Also be able to feel the difference in dipstick temps between this “properly breathing motor” and the motors I have been trying to run as of about 6-7 years… stock heater boxes and shrouds on big heads…
I agree the stock heater boxes have been killing my shit.. for multiple reasons.. we don’t need to argue that one… But I am starting to think that my relentless pursuit of good heat in a bus took me down a path were I did create the BEST bus stock heating system.. but in the process… I completely neglected my heads which lead to unacceptable head temps, which lead to over heated rings and a when you get real real real dumb like me… CRACK A CASE…. 😎JasonSParticipantOctober 6, 2020 at 6:56 pmPost count: 148
I will throw another opinion in. There is a lot of heat in a heater box, as mentioned before the air blowing over the tube helps pull heat away from the motor. Although it dumps it at the front of the engine which I never liked. I run the original flaps but weld and direct air flow to the heads, eliminate the thermostat and linkage.
Like Wayne mentioned I was looking at the 1 1/2 also but wanted heat to blow into the cab, I went with the 1 5/8 heater box and it has the aluminum fins in it like a stock heater box. I was thinking of adding an inline fan to help push the heat, 90’s baby. Probably not worth it as I haven’t seen them for sale in a long time.
I will also run a skid plate for both transmission and engine, knowing this will limit air flow I am thinking of adding scoops to help direct air towards the front of the engine where the exhaust bolts to the head, trying to envision some NASCAR or F1 shit.volksaddictParticipantOctober 6, 2020 at 7:32 pmPost count: 647
1. will be a good comparison John, Lowered and straight axle vs. rgb’s and big ass rack. Serious trip to test on, just go slower if it heats up?
If it goes good put the ols motor in the kombi for comparison?John JonesKeymasterOctober 7, 2020 at 9:20 amPost count: 7082
I was thinking this morning how ridiculous it sounds that I have to swap the motor in my RV, from my other RV, before I leave on Vacation next week, to another country!!!… 😎 😎 😎WaynerParticipantOctober 7, 2020 at 9:40 amPost count: 157
Should also be a good comparison on power loss thru the Rgb’s. Hope you have an awesome trip man.John JonesKeymasterOctober 10, 2020 at 8:56 amPost count: 7082
Should also be a good comparison on power loss thru the Rgb’s. Hope you have an awesome trip man.
I am second guessing this 3 week trip to Mexico… especially the part of tearing my Kombi apart…8-( But… with my lack of enthusiasm lately… a road trip is probably what I need…. 😎 Been feeling like crap again.. and can’t pin point any reason… 8-(John JonesKeymasterOctober 11, 2020 at 8:52 amPost count: 7082
Can’t wait to get my pamper motor… 2nd new case for the pamper… 4th set of heads😂😂😂😂😂😂😂. They called the other day and said my old heads are junk too.. 😂😂😂
im not taking my kombi apart… I love it too much to do that to it❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️John JonesKeymasterOctober 12, 2020 at 10:56 amPost count: 7082
whats the specs on the new engine?
I know I want the beast breathing heads I can get this time…8-) My kombi has stage two Steve Tim’s heads.. they are awesome. Painters mentioned panchito’s last time I talked to them…
I’m guessing 2332, 110, 8.5, 1/2 exhaust all around, with empty heater boxes, and I’m gonna buy a Gas powered Webasto soon!!!! Maybe two!!!!! 😎 and Since I am gonna go a gas heater…. I will put a bay tank in my heavy bitch and make her heavier… and a gas heater…. more more more… woo hooo!!!! 😎 😎John JonesKeymasterOctober 12, 2020 at 11:06 amPost count: 7082
I will throw another opinion in. There is a lot of heat in a heater box, as mentioned before the air blowing over the tube helps pull heat away from the motor. Although it dumps it at the front of the engine which I never liked. I run the original flaps but weld and direct air flow to the heads, eliminate the thermostat and linkage. Like Wayne mentioned I was looking at the 1 1/2 also but wanted heat to blow into the cab, I went with the 1 5/8 heater box and it has the aluminum fins in it like a stock heater box. I was thinking of adding an inline fan to help push the heat, 90’s baby. Probably not worth it as I haven’t seen them for sale in a long time. I will also run a skid plate for both transmission and engine, knowing this will limit air flow I am thinking of adding scoops to help direct air towards the front of the engine where the exhaust bolts to the head, trying to envision some NASCAR or F1 shit.
Mr Complicated… 😎 😎 😎 I mean that with all due respect, you have the patience and energy to keep on working!!!!
The Stock fan with the Venturi ring blows PLENTY hard… 😎 no need to add another electrical draw and possible failure item… But make sure you have it all blowing up front.. Commercial style T in the back.. My defrost fucking rocked! too good… 😎
I am doing empty boxes…. I think having an awesome heater directly under the biggest heat source on the engine is a less than optimal situation. I am doing 1 1/2 exhaust for good low end and a bit better breathing than stock… Ya know… I think stock boxes are 1 3/8?? I had a 1 1/2 header on those… It was probably creating a lot of my problem making them front cylinders hotter and hotter… 8-(
Fun talking about all this shit!!! All I want is the BEST SETUP…. But I have not found it just yet…. 😎 😎 😎BBWBParticipantOctober 12, 2020 at 11:23 amPost count: 872ColeBModeratorOctober 12, 2020 at 1:15 pmPost count: 1839BBWBParticipantOctober 12, 2020 at 5:46 pmPost count: 872
I did. Five years ago. Pretty decent heat too.
i don’t know much about your set up Ben. Subaru right? What is it exactly? How many miles do you have on it? Mpg? Issues?
I’ve got a 2.5 Subaru single overhead cam engine. I run it on a Mega Squirt ECU. Very simple. Built the trans with a super diff, super beetle main shaft, Weddle 3rd and 4th race gears gears(welded). Geared it for 75MPH at 2500RPM on 29inch tires. Kennedy Stage II pressure plate. Radiator on the belly between the frame rails.
Don’t really know the miles, but have been daily and long trip driving for five years. Four trips from Tucson to Havasu(400 miles), one trip to Grand Junction/Moab. In January, I finally fixed my speedo cable, and I’m at 8700+ mile so far this year. So, I’d say around 15,000+/- miles. This was a mystery motor I pulled at a pick and pull yard here in Tucson. Put new head gaskets, timing belt, and water pump at install. I’m guessing the engine had 160,000+/- at the pull, as that’s when most Subi’s puke the head gaskets.
Only issue I’ve had in that time, is the front input shaft bearing started howling on the return trip from GJ. It was due to my keeping the clutch in at stops, put to much load on the bearing. My milage is usually in the 17 to 21MPG range, depending on how hard, or heavily loaded I am.
It’s a real beater bus, but have great confidence in it.
I'm at the age where "fuck off", "fuck you", and "fuck it" answer most questions.sledParticipantOctober 12, 2020 at 7:39 pmPost count: 17
whats the specs on the new engine?
I know I want the beast breathing heads I can get this time…8-) My kombi has stage two Steve Tim’s heads.. they are awesome. Painters mentioned panchito’s last time I talked to them… I’m guessing 2332, 110, 8.5, 1/2 exhaust all around, with empty heater boxes, and I’m gonna buy a Gas powered Webasto soon!!!! Maybe two!!!!! and Since I am gonna go a gas heater…. I will put a bay tank in my heavy bitch and make her heavier… and a gas heater…. more more more… woo hooo!!!!
panchitos are phenomenal heads, definitely go with those if Painters is willing to use them!! an engine needs to breathe appropriately to make torque, choking the exhaust does not necessarily increase torque, but it will increase heat. Almost any 2332 with 40×35.5 heads and dual carbs will benefit from 1-5/8″ primaries. Is Painters familiar with other cam grinds than the old school 110? a Web 218 or even a Web 163 would be much better in a 2332 with panchitos than a 110 will be. 9.0:1
curious to see how this new one turns out!
I am really tempted by the inexpensive diesel heaters available now, I have a couple buddies who rave about them!John JonesKeymasterOctober 13, 2020 at 8:14 amPost count: 7082
Some new rubber for the front of the dually.. 275/30/24.. Them last 255/25’s were tooooo small… I already blew one ….Brian EParticipantOctober 13, 2020 at 10:21 amPost count: 43
I know you guys aren’t big fans of other people’s suggestions…..but speaking from experience……make sure the Panchitos you get have the CNC chamber option. Yes, they are more $$ and might take a bit longer to get, but I have run both CNC and non-CNC on my flow bench, and the non-CNC version doesn’t even flow their advertised numbers. They choke early because the intake valve is very shrouded as it is meant to be run in an stock 85mm bore as cast. The CNC option will also increase the chamber volume a bunch so you won’t have to run a giant deck height. The CNC’s I have used did flow very close to their advertised numbers, and the engines I have used them on all worked really well. The CB castings are really nice, super clean fins, and they weight a ton compared to an AA or empi casting. Get their as cast panchito manifolds as well. They are cheap and the manifolds have a BIG effect on how the heads work.
I would also skip the 1 1/2″ and go straight for the 1 5/8″ header. A guy we both know has an almost identical engine to mine, with the same exact heads I built for both. He has 1 1/2″ exhaust, I have 1 5/8″. We both road trip our buses and run the shit out of them. He had exhaust issues and cracked a head inside the exhaust port. My heavier bay and a 1 5/8″ header is still fine. I am 90% sure his smaller header is making the heads run hotter.
The 1 5/8″ will also allow you to use the NEW big 1 5/8″ heater boxes WITH FINS INSIDE. You can have your cake and eat it too. 1 5/8″exhaust and good heat. You might loose a touch of low end torque, but in a bus, getting the heat out of the heads is far more important.
You mentioned you like how the kombi runs, and it has a web 218 cam. Why not run a 218 in this engine? It is about the best low revving, long lasting torque cam I have found.
These suggestions are all coming from experience gained from building and testing quite a few hard used, and lasting engines. Do what you want with the suggestions. 😉
BrianFranzKeymasterOctober 13, 2020 at 10:41 amPost count: 3797
Yeah got it. Brian and Sled like 1 5/8″ exhaust, web cams, round combustion chambers, and tight deck height. 🔨 🐎
You guys act like this is new info. From 20 years ago. We’ve already done these combos, and know how they behave… More of a fast street car engine engine.
I don’t agree with you on deck height though…
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