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  • Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 893

    Considering the off-road use of this bus….would removing the adjusters altogether and cutting and turning the beam be a better option for reliability?

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3535

    We do have much more torsion arm movment and spring load on a lifted off road machine…Compared to a lowered street version with adjusters that may see 3-4″  of torsion arm movement.

    …Maybe we are asking too much of the adjuster bolt with 4-5 threads into the center block, to hold the weight of the bus, plus compression spring load for 6-8″of suspension.

    I’d say ajdusters are cool…They just need to have the block welded to the beam at the top and bottom of the slot. This would take the torsional load off of the adjuster bolt and teeth.

    You have a mess there Cole. You’ll need to get the adjuster bolt back in somehow, to keep the spring pack centered…. Then weld that shit up real good. 😉

    Tjmxllvoe622vp2s7yoeejaekydmr9o7v

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6545

    Will, here is a pic of my thin nut. F159BDF8-2BC9-4A7D-8886-D3DD3287837EWell Shit…. first big drop this weekend I heard a Big Bang… limped it home going 45… fun fun. Going to just weld it up this week… I was going pretty fast when it broke. Trying to show my brother Weston how Shasta is… haha AF176CD9-C647-404E-8C45-364B919EDBCD30883559-5590-4B01-8623-182C9CB97EA5also, broke this today. Anyone have a passenger wing window latch? 77AE170B-6BF6-4EF9-9964-F694C300163B

    I’m sure I have one..  did Emilee do that!!!!!! 😎

    Even the top adjuster was screaming bloody murder…  I’m happy I was a tight ass and welded my shit on my last two now.. 😎 😎 😎 If that happened on shasta… man we would be taking a beating….. 😎 😎  😎

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1558

    Ya,,,, glad I broke it in Utah. 150 miles from home. Not Shasta… 150 miles from town and 600 miles from home.

    I am thinking I’ll just weld the shit out of

    them. Weld a stud back in the old hole. Then hammer it down into place. I can see where the U channel was. Then I just weld that whole center block to the beam? Fill the whole thing with weld? Haha

     

    emilee was complaining that the latch was loose. So I told her to make sure to grab the window from the outside and press in while you latch it. But it was still all loose. So of course the one time I reach over to close it I break it… haha

    Willy
    Moderator
    Post count: 1108

    Bummer about the adjusters… I’ve always been a bit worried about that. How far did that bring the nose down when it let go? Rubbing the tires?

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1558

    Not rubbing. Had about 1” left. Was worried I’d lose the top adjuster and lock both front tires up going down the highway. That’s why I went so slow home.

    back to it now. Trying to get back to fun!

    Django with the assist. 9CDDD32B-6DE3-42EF-ACC6-1896D6FD446258839543-45F9-4311-8496-2C21BE59C2C3

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6545

    Crank it down and weld the fuck out of it…. 😎  Would be nice to clean them threads up.. Make sure you have only short tip on the grub screw.. 😎   If you weld that center block grub screw… You won’t be able to take your torsions out…

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1558

    No way the threads are coming back… it’s super blown out. Trying to turn in with a bar that I found. Fits in the blown out hole perfect. Then I can just turn it and weld.

    Willy
    Moderator
    Post count: 1108

    When I killed the threads on my center block I just turned it 180, drilled a new hole in it, and retapped it. Might be another option for you.

    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 233

    I have a freshly built, 68 Bay beam (which fit’s splits) I would consider selling.  It’s been set up with Wagens West adjusters with the forged center section.  If you have an interest, PM me.

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1558

    Thanks for the offer. But I’d like to try and fix what I fucked up. I couldn’t get either center blocks to move yesterday. Franz suggested this super pro tip of jacking both tires down from the wheel wells. HUGE pop and the bottom block let go! Psyched! Now I can reposition and weld. I’m guessing the mushrooming of metal from the stud blowing out was holding it up from spinning freely. Expert jack techniques hahaha F76D6C7D-29E5-4B64-B616-42392FF58B7EE81463B7-60AB-49B0-BB25-FD8E522DDC90

    MikeK
    Participant
    Post count: 233

    You could wallow out a little groove or drill some holes on the opposite side and weld that as well.  That things going to smoking like an oil well fire if it’s lubed up.

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6545

    You could wallow out a little groove or drill some holes on the opposite side and weld that as well. That things going to smoking like an oil well fire if it’s lubed up.

      hadn’t even thought of that!!  😎  That shows you the amount of force put on them adjusters…. Probably would have been “ok” with the beef cakes and not just some random think wall channel we had sitting around… BUT…. This is not the first time this has happened… so… I think… if you want to raise it and have good suspension… you better make damn sure your center blocks are secure, because the evidence shows, turning it for more height and travel, I bet cutting off the bump stops makes a big difference also. hummm…   I fee like your probably gonna have to take it apart and redrill and tap the opposite side of the center block… BUT… getting a center block out right now is impossible unless you cut it out from the center… (It’s not gonna go by the bushings…)  fuck…

    Lets just start the fuck over with a new core from out back.. fuck that whole beam… 8-(

     

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1558

    Re tapped and put a tapered 5/8 bolt in the center block. Tacked that a bit and now have the bottom center block welded. Welding upside down, over head, and laying on your back is hard and HOT hahaha

     

    if this doesn’t work, I’ll take you up on your offer JJ. You know I love me some compound time 😎A9B15D24-BCBA-4FA7-933D-0FE8F350DA68

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6545

    You know your welcome anytime…. 😎  😎 😎

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 136

    On the beefcake adjuster there’s 6 teeth that mesh in the rail that’s welded to the beam. When tight, that’s a pretty positive lock. Think it’s forged, may be cast, but the teeth mesh tight…Hard to imagine a piece of mild steel channel with 2 teeth would provide the same positive lock for the adjuster…. but welds will hold it if you get penetration into the center block.   Burn it in cole train.

    EDEF965F-E44C-49C0-9F9C-362A9521606D

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6545

    yeah… in the future… if we don’t have the “right” parts to make it adjustable, we should weld it from the get go…. 😎  😎

    Live and learn… You can’t learn just how far off from perfect you can stray without trying some shit every now and then… 😎  😎  That goes for body work, paint, most things…8-)

    Sorry Cole… 😎  I bet KB was following you home in my old BBOE laughing at you….  😎

    Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 136

    Pushing the limits as far as you can is how to grow. 😎

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1558

    I burned it in.maybe too much haha. Might be hard to pull the bolts out of the center blocks… but who knows. Just might have to cut a tack and then pull them out. We will see…image

     

    Just took my bus into an empty lot here and banged it around real hard. Seems to be holding… 🤞🏼 Hard to weld when it’s in the car. I may just build up another beam and weld it from the start.

    ya… KB was making fun of me the whole way home haha

    BBWB
    Participant
    Post count: 825

    You should get that bay beam Cole. Much nicer ride than the linkpin beam. I’ve had one in my bus 6 years now.

    I'm at the age where "fuck off", "fuck you", and "fuck it" answer most questions.

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