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  • Wayner
    Participant
    Post count: 136

    Man, That sucks buddy. Those first 500 miles are crucial for break in, not sure the Utah 300 was the best place to do that.

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553

    So you’re saying Shasta is going to be good for break in this time around? Haha

     

    hopefully the 1400 miles before we hit the dirt will help the break in.

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6534

    Man, That sucks buddy. Those first 500 miles are crucial for break in, not sure the Utah 300 was the best place to do that.

    LOLOLOLOL… we drove hard too…. Thats when I smoked my last top end… Racing you fools to the state line and then down that hwy before we turned left to hit Baker  Hot Springs..  I’m sure of it… 😎  I got my shit too hot that day…   I’m gonna slow down again and take it easy…  maybe I will put a tach in this weekend??

    So you’re saying Shasta is going to be good for break in this time around? Haha hopefully the 1400 miles before we hit the dirt will help the break in.

    PERFECT!!!!!!! 😎  Looking forward to shasta!!!!  I’m gonna get back on the 20th.. and then leave again on the say….. 25th and head straight to Spencer Hot Springs!  😎    Then meet up with the RENO crew and head towards the rampage spot! 😎 20th anniversary!!!!

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6534

    Ya, don’t know what rings painters used. The head nuts were all to spec. Definitely had some issues with the valves. None of them looked very seated. The cylinder walls were pretty smooth as well… so I ordered new rings and valves. Going to lap the valves into the heads and hone/re ring the cylinders. also, stamped on the case it says that they put a Engle 110 cam in it. But when I looked in at the bottom end to look at wear I noticed that the cam says k8…. which is not a 110. More of a dragster cam…. I called painters and they said there is no way they put a k8 in if it is stamped 110…. so I’m confused. No one has been in the motor since they built it this summer. i also had to order a new starter. Mine went out when I was doing compression checks hahaha. When it rains it pours I guess… going to work on my interior this weekend while I wait for parts. BA3E72D3-19E2-4297-875C-0E7300DE4E66

     

    weird about the cam….

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6534

    an FK8 cam would call for ratio rockers?????… which I doubt you had….

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553

    I thought I did have them… I will double check tomorrow.

    volksaddict
    Participant
    Post count: 593

    I don’t see much seating surface on that exhaust seat and looks like pits on the intake in the 1 pic, did it seam like the valves were sealing in your leakdown test? I think I would grind the seats, especially with new valves.

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553

    Mainly sounded like it was coming from the rings. But the valves definitely weren’t sealed either

    alykat
    Participant
    Post count: 463

    Nothing about that picture looks good.

    John Jones
    Keymaster
    Post count: 6534

    I heard your building a bed…. I am not sure about any pics…

    Some tips..I did three braces running front to back  I screwed and glued 1/2 together to make trusses…  then cut and sanded for tight fit!The outside braces bolted through the wheel wells and tight… Center brace just screwed to the top wood.. You need three… or it’s gonna flex with you and Emily in there….. 😎  They fit perfect up against the engine wall.. and are shorter than the wall by your top thickness… I did 1/2 I think..   I only put wood where I had too.. ie.. not over the engine.. and it goes forward to about 1/2 way through the rear cargo door..  full width…. I think we crammed a twin or queen in there??  I had an 8″.. but thats too thick..  Get a 4″ memory foam mattress.. I think walmart may have had them…????

    I angled them braces back for max room for a cooler and shit.. but you could go straight down..

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553

    Sweet! Thanks for the info. I took measurements yesterday in preparation.  I need to get my motor back together in order to haul wood…. hahaha I think I found a rack up here for sale too thatll be good for shasta.

    On the subject of my motor. I sourced some NOS german vw valves from an old timer here in WA. I am going to go get them from him on Monday. My old valves had a good sized groove in them. I couldve used our valve grinder. But the thought of new vw parts sounded more appealing.

    I have also been thinking of my QuartNine(which is more like 10 Quarts with the full flow/filter) sump…. My motor was barely getting to temp in the fall when I was driving it. I averaged 186f  from my readings all fall. Low end of operating temp. I worry I wont ever warm up on this SST road trip with it being below 30 degrees most of the time. Two thoughts:

    Should I add the preheat/thermostat back into my fan shroud? This would help make sure I come up to good oil temp.

    Maybe there is a way to plug the holes in the sump during winter? Like the bra’s that diesel trucks use in the winter? If I plug those 16 holes, it would greatly reduce the airflow through the sump. Maybe allowing the oil to stay a bit warmer in winter? I will have to do tests when I get the motor back together.

     

     

    Also, I fixed my wipers. One of the arms broke where it attaches to the ball socket at the wiper pivot. I took my parcel tray out and ended up JB welding the arm back together. Hopefully it’ll stay. Of course its the driver side wiper that broke haha

     

    I insulated the bus last night as well. Less of a rattle trap! haha and hopefully help with the cold temps ahead!

    IMG_0876

    alykat
    Participant
    Post count: 463

    As a quick test on stopping air flow through the sump, get a roll of Gorilla tape and run a strip front and back drive it for a bit and see if that helps the issue.

    Franz
    Keymaster
    Post count: 3524

    SI have also been thinking of my QuartNine(which is more like 10 Quarts with the full flow/filter) sump…. My motor was barely getting to temp in the fall when I was driving it. I averaged 186f from my readings all fall. Low end of operating temp. I worry I wont ever warm up on this SST road trip with it being below 30 degrees most of the time. Two thoughts: Should I add the preheat/thermostat back into my fan shroud?

    That is great info Cole! Perfect I would say. The sump did what it was supposed to.

    Like alykat suggested, insulating the sump will do good. Do you know someone that can sew? I’d make  a fiberglass blanket (harbor frieght) and ratchet strap  type diaper thing.

    mtnbus
    Participant
    Post count: 1098
    • B189E0BD-D125-423A-83FB-4D45FA324253Did you ever see this article ?

    thats your bus at the bar across the street ! Its framed and on the wall at the Nugget bar so I see this all the time !

    pretty cool

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553

    The sump is definitely going what it was designed for! In the summer heat it will be PERFECT. I will figure some sort of cover out. I have some ideas I will test when the motor goes back together this week…

     

    Yes bubba! I did see that. I need to get myself a copy of that magazine! Such a fun week in CO when that pic was taken!

     

    I went trough everything I could touch under my bus today while it was on the rack. Checked shock bolts. Front end stuff. My nose cone mount nuts were loose. Made sure that was all together. Double checked trans/rgb gear oil. Re torqued lug nuts and rotated tires. Torqued frame horn bolts… All that is left is my motor and quick bed build and then I am sitting pretty. Hopefully motor is done by this week and then onto the bed this weekend. I did notice that all the fuel line I put in my bus in MAY 2019 was hard as a ROCK!!! Check your fuel lines today!! I will replace it all when the new motor goes in. Scary how fast that “new” line gets stiff as a board.

     

    Cant sleep…. Need to get out in my bus!! Super excited.

     

     

    volksaddict
    Participant
    Post count: 593

    US spec rubber with fuelie hose clamps, good to go for years…

    Pete
    Participant
    Post count: 892

    I used the Belmetric line linked below on my last change.  Ethanol resistant, braided, slightly thicker than lines from the VW parts houses.  Been really happy with it so far.

    https://www.belmetric.com/multifuel-hoseethanol-approved-c-14_662/?zenid=nkml4l0k629fl0360olmklnfn6

    Tried to add a photo but when I do the post just disappears.

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553

    I will look into that line. Thanks!

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553

    E9087E94-093E-4497-916A-D03AFE1CFA24Had to break out the valve grinder today. My heads were pretty fucked. Got the seats looking pretty tho. Seems like they only did the guides When they went through these heads.

     

    got the heads all put back together. Rings are supposed to show up tomorrow and this top end will be back from apart. 😎

    ColeB
    Moderator
    Post count: 1553
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