Home Forums Technical Questions Bench Bleeding the Master cylinder

Viewing 0 posts
Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • Douglas E Fresh
    Participant
    Post count: 282

    Franz or Pat,

    Do you guys bench bleed master cylinders before installation?  Ive been reading up and both have their camps so I figured id ask you guys.

     

    Also, on my bus i have the freeway flyer transmission with 69 axles (may want to double check with Franz) and need to replace rear axle seals.  Silly question but i assume i just get rear axle seals for a 69 beetle??  thanks

    D-

    Franz
    Participant
    Post count: 5385

    67 beetle axles

    And I don’t normally bench bleed. Because we use a vacuum bleeder to suck fluid through the system before the pedal is pressed.

    I’m most careful to not press the pedal on a dry master because it can flip or damage the seals.

     

    John Jones
    Moderator
    Post count: 11608

    Never bench bled a master in my whole life 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎

    Knockin shit out!!!!!😎. One project at a time👍🏻

    Douglas E Fresh
    Participant
    Post count: 282

    As always thanks for the good info.

     

    Franz, I hate to ask such a a seemingly simple question,  but after replacing the rear axle seals on my bus I began to put in mew brake hardware.  I fear I may have purchased the wrong combo of cylinders/shoes because it feels as though the shoes are hitting the back plate.  Am I still using the Type 1 backplate?  I looked back through pics and the day the trans came in it says it used T-1 brakes.  Anyway, if you were replacing the brakes on the back of my bus which hardware would you buy?  thanks.  Ill bring beer by the shop next time I come through

    D-

    Franz
    Participant
    Post count: 5385

    You’ll want to measure the width of the original brake shoes to determine the year.

    Do the backing plates have holes to access the adjusters star nuts(68+)?

    Franz
    Participant
    Post count: 5385
    Douglas E Fresh
    Participant
    Post count: 282

    IMG_5913[1]

    Franz, Took a Pic of the backing plate while home at lunch.  No Holes in the backing plate which  guess means earlier style.  Old brakes were 1 3/16 wide and the ones I bought were 1 9/16.

    I ordered the parts before I tore things apart and if memory serves me I ordered the wider type 3 brake shoes and cylinder because in my mind I thought we had done that when it was installed.  Apparently it was just thing drums.

    IMG_5916[1]

    I included a pic of the new shoe just so you could see what I bought.

     

    Me thinks I should smoke less and pay more attention when at the shop!  And as always, thanks guys for answering the dumb questions

    D-

    Douglas E Fresh
    Participant
    Post count: 282

    So if I read the chart correctly i should purchase 65-67 rear….correct?

     

    Franz
    Participant
    Post count: 5385

    Yeah. Those would be 65-67 backing plates, because they have 6 bumps for the shoes to ride on. No adjustment holes, and wide slot/angled adjuster.

    Type 3 are 1” larger diameter brake drums, so the shoes would not fit.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.